See my Youtube videos below for a tour of our goat mini barn! The first video was taken in July of 2018 that gives specifics on dimensions, organization, etc. The second video was taken in March of 2020 that shows updates and changes that have been made since the first video.
In these videos I make reference to my goat milk stand and lambing jug blog posts
Most Recent Video - March 2020
First Video - July 2018
Being the sole caretaker of my animals, it is my responsibility to give my pregnant girls the absolute best care possible to ensure a healthy pregnancy and the easiest delivery possible. It is a responsibility that I also happen to take very seriously. Now, with that being said, sometimes despite how far above and beyond you go with your care, stuff just happens that’s out of your control. This is a hard lesson I learned this year with my first farrowing. But, the best thing you can possibly do for a healthy doe and kids is to give mom the best care possible during her pregnancy.
Some of the care comes towards the end of the pregnancy, while some is just general health and responsibly caring for your doe before being bred. Once a dairy goat is of breeding age, at any given point throughout the year she is either pregnant, lactating, or both. Each require a certain level of care to maintain health and body condition.
Body Condition & General Health
Before your doe is even bred, she should be in good body condition not only for the best chance of the pregnancy settling but for her health as well. A good body condition is an ideal balance of fat and muscle. There are various things that can affect body condition above and beyond over and under feeding. Age, parasites, disease, whether the doe has ever been bred, and the point in her lactation cycle can all have an effect. Too thin is equally as detrimental as too heavy, and can lead to fertility issues, pregnancy toxemia/ketosis, labor difficulties, and higher risk of kid mortality. Being in good body condition will set her up for as healthy of a pregnancy as possible, meaning healthier kids and stronger milk production. If you are unsure how to determine your dairy goat’s body condition score, here is a great video that goes over the scoring system. Whether you’re doing linear appraisal or not, this video will show you what to look for to determine if your doe is too heavy, too thin, or just right.
In addition to body condition, careful attention should be taken to provide any additional supplements she may be deficient in. Being deficient in certain vitamins and minerals can affect fertility and stillborn rates, and sometimes feed and loose minerals isn’t enough. I personally live in a selenium and copper deficient area of the country, so as a preventative measure I give my entire herd a dose of Replamin Gel Plus weekly. It includes many essential vitamins and minerals in addition to the selenium and copper we are deficient in. Administering this weekly has made a huge difference in the thickness and quality of their coats, skin health, and has prevented fertility issues due to providing the much needed selenium and copper naturally lacking. Before breeding season, I recommend that you look into what your area may be deficient in and handle accordingly to prevent potential issues. Whether it be a weekly supplement or a shot your vet can administer, it is worth looking into.
Feeding
Providing your doe with a proper diet is a delicate balance. There are so many variables including quality of hay and grain, breed, and size of the goat. With so many different types of grain and brands, not to mention hay quality, all I can do is speak to what I do here.
I feed out organic second cut hay, and my backup is organic early first cut. These cuttings have the highest nutrient content possible and I fill their hay feeders both morning and at night. Easy enough right? If only…
Throughout the winter regardless of pregnancy, for my winter care regimen (but it just so happens winter is when everyone is pregnant anyway) I also feed out one cup of New Country Organics Goat Pellets to each doe every night. Because they like to bounce around from dish to dish, starting at about six weeks out from her due date I will feed the expecting mother on the milk stand separately. Not only does this get her into the habit of getting on the stand again, but it ensures that she is getting all the grain for her growing babies. When she has a month to go before kidding, I up the grain to one and a half to two cups to accommodate for the rapid growth the kids are going through at this point in gestation.
Grain is a bit of a hot topic issue. Depending on who you ask you will get different opinions on what (if any) grain to feed out during pregnancy and how much. Some swear by feeding out alfalfa pellets late in gestation for additional calcium to aid in labor and milk production, while others say absolutely not due to hypocalcemia. I have found goats to be incredibly tricky as there is a lot of conflicting information out there depending on who you ask.
Regardless of this, pregnancy toxemia is a risk if excessive grain is given during the final month of pregnancy, while ketosis can happen after kidding if not given enough grain. Like I said, it’s a balance! It can be difficult to maintain, but keeping an eye on body condition late in gestation and getting to know your goat’s body will help you determine if she’s getting enough or too much to eat.
Herbal Supplements
Once I start feeding the expectant mother on the milk stand six weeks before her due date I start top dressing 1/4 cup of Molly’s Herbals Pregnancy Tonic on her feed as well. This natural herbal supplement containing red raspberry leaf, alfalfa, rose hips, fennel, and cinnamon has huge benefits to a pregnant doe and I swear by it. Some of the benefits (straight from the site) include:
- Aid in preventing miscarriage and hemorrhage
- Aid in reducing pain during labor and after birth; by helping to tone the muscles used during labor and delivery.
- Strengthen the uterus
- Aid in providing a safe and speedy birth; helps to encourage the uterus to let go and function without tension. This does not strengthen contractions, but does allow the contracting uterus to work more effectively and so make the birth easier and faster.
- Aid in colostrum / milk production and quality.
- When consumed after birth, this Pregnancy Tonic may help decrease uterine swelling and cut down on post partum bleeding.
- Supplies Vitamins A, Bs, C, E, K, D. High in Calcium and contains phosphorus, iron. potassium and enzymes and trace minerals.
I used tonic last year throughout the last trimester of my doe Karen’s pregnancy. She had a textbook kidding in every way imaginable. Her labor was quick, she quickly released the placenta, and there was minimal post partum bleeding. I largely thank the Molly’s Herbals for this, and will always feed it to my pregnant does!
Shave Her Up
Shortly before kidding you will want to give your does udder, backs of legs, and vulva area a thorough shaving with an electric razor. Not only will this make clean up easier after birthing, but a clean shaved udder will make it easier for the kids to nurse and easily find the teats.
I have maintained (and still do!) that dairy goats are some of the most difficult animals to keep. They can be so delicate yet tough at the same time, and so many things can go wrong during pregnancy, kidding, and with milk production. There is conflicting information everywhere you turn, and it can be extremely frustrating. But, once you have a reliable grain, hay, and supplement regimen you figure out a rhythm that works for you. Feeding quality feed is the best you can do just like with any other animal. But, I also believe that what works and what doesn’t work largely is affected by animals living conditions, as well as the area of the country you live in and its deficiencies.
All of the care I mentioned above is what I do, and what I learned from my friend and amazing goat mentor Angela with some of my own research. This works for me and gives my herd the best chance possible at a healthy pregnancy and kids! Do you give special care/ treatment/ feeding/ supplements to your pregnant does? Let’s hear what you do below!
Spring is right around the corner and with that comes kidding season! Just like with any other animal that’s preparing to give birth, I like to have a well stocked birthing kit on hand that can cover my bases for the most common problems that potentially arise. I do not want to be in the midst of a situation and not have something on hand that could help the doe or the baby if I can help it.
Now I am far from an expert, and I am not a veterinarian. This list is merely what I have accumulated, and other people’s kits may include or exclude some of these items. So I highly recommend that you do have a vet you can contact in case of an emergency, and even consult them about what you should include in your kit in preparation for kidding!
What's In My Kit
Things to Dry Those Babies Off!
- Blow Dryer
- Towels
- Puppy pads/paper feed bags
- Sweaters
- Heat Lamp
Regardless of the climate you live in, it is essential to get those babies dry and warm once they’re born. Puppy potty pads or paper feed bags work great to catch the babies on once they are born as a way to contain all of the birthing goo and keep bedding clean and dry. They should then be towel dried (puppy pads also work!) and then blow dried to get completely dry and work as a quick warm up.
If it’s really cold, goat sweaters come in handy to help them stay warm and if you really need it heat lamps. I have always been scared of heat lamps due to their fire hazard, but last year I made the switch to Premier 1 Prima heat lamps due to their many safety features. They give me peace of mind knowing my goat kids, lambs, and piglets are safe and warm.
Immediately After Birth and Dry Off
- Nutri-Drench
- Iodine
- Glass to dip cord in (tall shot class works well)
- Floss/fishing line
- Colostrum/colostrum replacer
Once the kid(s) have been completely dried off, I put a pump of Nutri-Drench in everyone’s mouth including mom. This gives them a nutrient and vitamin boost as well as molasses for energy. I give this immediately after drying off, even before nursing to give them a much needed quick boost of energy.
The umbilical cord also needs to be dipped in iodine all the way up to the belly. This sterilizes the cord and prevents any kind of infection from entering. It will eventually dry up and fall off on its own. I keep dental floss and/or fishing line on hand as well in case the umbilical cord didn’t break on its own during birth. If it doesn’t, tie it off with floss or fishing line to stop blood flow and carefully cut the cord with your thumb nail.
Making sure the babies start nursing from mom as soon as possible after kidding is essential. The colostrum the mother is producing simply put is liquid gold and without it the kid will likely not survive. Sometimes however, you have latching issues or production issues and it just can’t happen. So, keeping frozen colostrum on hand in the freezer (this is ideal!!!) or kid colostrum replacement is a must. If you have the frozen colostrum and need to use it, do not microwave to thaw. Let it gently thaw in warm water so you don’t “cook” it.
Expect the Unexpected
There are various things I keep in on hand for general health care as well as in case of an emergency with the babies or doe during kidding. I have used every single item below in one scenario or another, and they are all essential when keeping goats. All of these items can be sourced from your local farm store and online farm supply stores such as Jeffers. These items include:
- Molasses
- Thermometer
- Gloves
- Lube
- CMPK drench/paste
- Dosing gun/syringe
- Vitamin B Complex ( I use injectable)
- Penn-G
- LA-300
- Ivermectin Sheep Pour on & Injectable
- Various Sryinges (18 gauge & 20 gauge)
- Sanitary Wipes
- Electrolytes
- Pritchard Nipples
- Bottle (old pop bottle)
- Diagram of birthing positions
Prescription Medications to Keep on Hand
- Banamine
- Dexamethasone
These are all the items that I currently keep in my goat/kid kit, and I have had to use in one situation or another whether it be for my goats or pigs. Depending on your situation, you may need items not included on this list or may never need items that I have included. Over time you will accumulate supplies as needed, but this is a great place to start.
Do you keep any items in your kidding kit for the babies or mom that I didn’t include? Let’s hear them below and why!
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Last spring my dream of having my own dairy goat in milk came true. I welcomed home Audrey, a second freshener Nigerian Dwarf who sadly lost her kids at birth. I milked Audrey at my friend Angelas the night I brought her home and she was a dream on the stand. She would give the occassional foot stomp, but that was it! She stood like a champ and quietly munched on her grain while I emptied her udder full of creamy milk.
I brought her home afterwards and was already looking forward to waking up the next morning to head down to my own barn, bucket in tow and milk her on my stand. Well, morning came, the bucket was in tow, and what ensued was total chaos! Bronco bucking, kicking, handstands, at one point she actually sat down! Who was this goat and what did she do with Audrey?! I couldn’t even touch her. I was frustrated to the point of crying and didn’t understand what was wrong with her and why this was happening to me. I called the woman who lives up the street from me and asked her to come down to help me and hold her legs. It was ugly and stressful, certainly not the romanticized vision I had in my head. But, we got the job done. That night she came to help again, and then only a mere two days later I was milking her solo without issue. So, how did I get to that point?
Looking back it was pretty naive of me to think that I would be able to bring home a three year old doe who had just left her home, put her with a new herd, on a new milk stand with a new person milking and think that it would be easy. Duh. I knew she would have to adjust, but I definitely underestimated it. Live and learn! Through my experience there are some things that I learned I will keep in my back pocket, because this surely won’t be the last time this will happen. I am by no means an expert on the topic, but I can certainly give some pointers that worked for me and if you’re in a similar situation, will hopefully work for you!
Patience of a Saint
There is no way I can possible stress this point enough. You need the patience of a saint. Goats are incredibly intelligent and intuitive animals and they can sense when you’re stressed. If you’re stressed and/or frustrated with her, you’ll only transmit that negative energy to her. Initially give yourself plenty of time to milk. Depending on if you’re an experienced milker or not, it may take you twenty to thirty minutes to actually milk her out. So give yourself forty five minutes or so to account for her acting up, and taking things slow. Whether this means you have to wake up earlier, or take a shower at night rather than the morning, do it because if you’re rushed you’ll be impatient. I am so grateful I picked her up right before the weekend, so I could really take my time and not be worried about running into issues and being late for work.
Associate the Milk Stand with a Pleasant Experience
It is crucial at first for her to associate the milk stand with a good experience. Otherwise, she won’t want to go on willingly, and when you do muscle her up you’ll be fighting her the whole time she is up there. I like to set the mood before even putting her on the stand. I play calm classical music when I first get in the barn and let her out of the stall to mosey around. Eventually she makes her way over to the stand and hops up for grain. When you first get her on the stand you don’t want to jump right into the milking. Pet her, brush her, clean her udder then pet her some more while she is eating. Then start milking while speaking softly and telling her what a good girl she is. Take breaks if she starts kicking or bucking, then start again when she’s calmed down. Going slow and not rushing the process is key initially. You need to be firm and show her who is boss when she tests you, but stay calm and collected. And always make sure you end on a good note!
Lift a Leg to Milk
If you take anything away from this post, make it this. Milk with a leg up. Not only does this give you easier access to the teat, but it really keeps her from kicking. They make hobbles, but think about it: both legs are still down on the stand. Even though they’re connected, she can still launch her back legs up and hop like a bunny. If you hold a leg up, she is trying to stabilize herself and keep balance with that one leg making it way more difficult for her to hop around. Now she still may, but it’s more of a short hop rather than a full on kick. It’s much more manageable, and a heck of a lot easier to milk rather than trying to tame a two legged bucking doe! Because Audrey has a young and tight udder, this will be how I milk her normally because it gives me free and clear access to her teat without her leg getting in the way. When I dump the milk, I put her leg down to give her a break and then lift it again when I’m ready.
Frequently Dump the Milk
Now this tip is more for you than for her. Always have another container away from the stand to dump your milk into and do it frequently. It’s inevitable you will get a foot in your bucket/jar/measuring cup at some point, so it’s better that you dump it regularly so if/when it happens you don’t have to throw away half of your day’s milk. Because when it does happen (and the likelihood of it happening is certainly higher with a kicking and jumping doe) you will be mad, and it will only frustrate you further making the situation worse.
Lavender Essential Oil
This one I didn’t personally try because I literally ran out of lavender essential when I had brought her home. But, I strongly suspect that it would work, and if not it certainly won’t hurt! Pure lavender essential oil is renowned for its calming and soothing effects. So, if you dab a couple drops around her collar before putting her on the stand it, or even put it in a diffuser it will allow her to breathe it in and (hopefully) calm her down and put her at ease.
By living by all these tips I went from being in tears that first morning not knowing how I was going to make this work, to essentially stress free milking and singing happily by the end of the weekend. If you are having the same struggle, it is going to take time and patience. There are no shortcuts, but there are things you can do to help. How much time depends on the goat, and if she has ever been milked before or is a first freshener. Have you ever milked a stubborn goat? What worked for you to help tame her?
When you own goats, a milk stand proves to be an invaluable piece of equipment. Whether you’re milking or not, it can be used for trimming hooves, giving shots, drawing blood, and performing ultrasounds. It also makes a pretty good place for your barn kitten to eat her food in peace so the puppy doesn’t bother her. Well… as much.
Purchased goat milk stands are wildy expensive, and honestly, I’m not all that impressed with them. Unless you pay someone to build you one, they come pretty standard size. I however, am not standard size, so these milk stands are too short for me which makes milking and trimming hooves uncomfortable. They also are meant for a certain sized goats, so “for nigerian dwarfs” or “for nubians”. But, what if you’re like me and you have both? This simply was not going to cut it for me. So, naturally I bribed by husband and he built me a customized goat milk stand that suited my needs. Did I mention that it was made out of scrap? So yes, a highly functional milk stand was made out of scrap wood we had lying around and it ended up saving us several hundred dollars. And it’s better! I have used this stand now for about a year for milking, trimming hooves, shots, and ultrasounds. It has served me quite well for all of my goats, and there is quite literally nothing about it I would change.
Now, let me be clear this post is not a “how to build a goat milk stand”. I am not a wood worker, and I am not going to walk you through step by step how my husband cut the angles, etc. This merely is a guide that gives the dimensions and little creative ideas to guide you to build your own.
Design Points and Dimensions
When designing the stand, I essentially took all of the dimensions from my friend Angela’s metal stand and then changed them based on some of her suggestions from using it and to suit my needs. Being about 5’10”, her 14″ tall stand was far too short for me to comfortably sit or kneel by. So, I made it taller so I wouldn’t have to hunch down over. The other major issue was that the feeder on hers was at a fixed height. It was an ideal height for Nigerian Dwarfs, but uncomfortably low for a Nubian. So, the challenge was to make the height of the feeder adjustable depending on what size goat was being milked. Specific dimensions of the overall stand are:
-Height from floor to top of the base: 18.5″Height from top of the base to top of the stanchion: 39.5″
-Overall Height from floor to top of stanchion: 58″
-Dimensions of the base (where goats stand) : 20″ wide x 42″ long
-Distance between opening of stanchion when closed: 4″
-Distance from top of base to 1st feeder position (cleat): 12″
-Distance from top of base to 2nd feeder position (cleat): 18″
Confused yet? Okay, maybe these additional photos will help you out:
This little number here pictured above is referred to as the “stanchion”. This is actually where the goat’s head will go through in order to eat, allowing you to lock it in and go on with your business. The photo (left) shows the stanchion in the closed position. So in this position the goats head is in and it’s eating away. The inside distance between the two wooden bars is 4″. This is plenty of distance for the goat to not be strangled or uncomfortable in any way, but it also prevents her from being able to pull her head back out. The photo (right) shows the stanchion in the open position. This is the position the stanchion is for the goat to get her head in and out of the locked position.
The wooden bar on the left is in a fixed vertical position while the one on the right is hinged to move left (to lock them in) and right (to open). The bolt at the top fits into a hole that goes through the cross beam as well as the hinged wooden bar to lock it into place. Most milk stands have this bolt on the outside of the stand, but I felt it made more sense to have it on the inside. I mean, that’s the side I’m always on so it made more sense to me?
I have to give credit to my husband, because he really was thinking “in the future” when building this. The existing 4″ opening for the stanchion in the locked position works for my existing herd. But, you never know what will happen down the road. The purchased metal milk stands have different positions that you can lock the stanchion in to make the opening narrower or wider. Basically, he created the same effect with the right hinged wooden bar by offsetting the hole (left photo below) to the right. So that if I need to have a wider opening, there is available room to the left of it on the wooden bar (right photo below) to drill a second hole for a wider opening if needed
Now, the adjustable height of the feeders is where he really got creative. Ever hear of a french cleat? Yeah, me neither.
One of the major design changes I wanted to make away from “standard” was the ability to adjust the height of the feeder regardless of goat size. So, the solution to the problem was creating these french cleats! Basically, the feeder is permanently attached to the piece of wood with the “male” cleat. He then attached two different pairs of “female” cleats at two different heights that we tested and were comfortable for the different sized goats. The 1st cleat also known as the Nigerian Dwarf height (pictured right) from the top of the base to the top of the feeder itself is 12″. The 2nd cleat also known as Nubian height is 18″ from the top of the base to the top of the feeder. This makes changing the feeder heights a breeze. Simply pop the board out and pop it in the required height! This makes eating more comfortable for the goats and as a result, they will give you less grief which is always a win.
This stand truly is one of the greatest things I could ask for as far as keeping goats is concerned. All of the little tweaks, and clever customizations really makes it work for me and my herd. Maybe you’re short and don’t need a stand so tall or you only raise a certain breed and don’t need varying feeder heights. Whatever the situation, building one yourself is not hard and honestly it will save you a ton of money! Has anyone else built their own goat milk stand and customized it to their needs? Comment below, let’s hear them!
Taking care of livestock in the winter is where the men are separated from the boys. Well below freezing temperatures, deep snow, ripping winds, frozen water…these are some of the challenges winter brings. Living in north central Massachusetts, we get the snow and frigid subzero temperatures, so winter is real around here. I get asked a lot about how we care for our animals in the cold months, as it seems to be a concern for people new to keeping livestock. When it comes to the goats, there really are two things that are of the upmost importance: they need to be dry and in as draft free of an area as possible. They can handle the coldest of temperatures as long as they are dry, their bedding is dry, and they have protection from drafts.
While my goats are spoiled rotten with their organic/soy free/non gmo feed, organic second cut hay, and constant doting, I consider myself to be pretty old school when it comes to animal husbandry. I am a firm believer that animals were built to handle inclement weather. They have thick coats, snuggle to stay warm, and as ruminants their fermenting bellies act like internal space heaters. So, this means no heat lamps or additional heat sources in the barn. Now not saying these couldn’t or shouldn’t be used in life or death situations. But, these supplemental heat sources throw their bodies out of whack and make it difficult for them to self regulate with constant exposure. Not to mention the extreme danger of a fire. I have been known however to wake up 1-2 times in the middle of the night when we have real bad cold snaps (like last year when it was -20F+ for weeks on end) to suit up and go check on the girls. So, what do I do to keep our herd going throughout the cold months? Read on friends.
Fresh Water and Night Time Feedings
While there are several “hacks” you hear out there for keeping water from freezing with salt water in a pop bottle floating in water, or a bucket stuffed in a tire with insulation, I don’t use them. Frankly, we have too many animals and uhhh the whole full time job thing gets in the way too. We are all about the heated buckets and stock tank heaters around here to ensure that everyone has access to thawed and fresh water all day no matter the temperatures.
I keep out two 2-gallon heated buckets for the does (and Annie girl) , and one bucket for the boys. Every night I dump whatever water is in the buckets and replenish with fresh. Just because it’s hot out doesn’t mean the goats drink any less water. If anything, I find they drink just as much if not more sometimes than in the summer. My goats however, are spoiled rotten snobs and if the water isn’t replenished daily, I will have an uprising on my hands.
In an added measure to help them stay warm throughout cold nights, I always feed their daily grain during evening chores. The grain paired with their evening 2nd cut hay ration keeps their rumens going strong and digesting throughout the night. Fat bellies full of fermenting feed and hay act like internal space heaters keeping them warm and happy throughout the night.
Proper Bedding
Bedding material is a matter of personal preference and finding what works best for you. For the past two winters I have tried (and failed) to implement a deep litter method using a combination of straw, hay waste, and pine shavings. Because the floors of my stalls are cement, I thought this would help the goats stay off of the cold cement to stay warm. While I know several people that this method works well for, it has yet to work for me and this winter I have accepted defeat and kissed it goodbye. My stalls are too small causing all of the bedding to get wet quickly, and wet bedding in the winter is the enemy. Since the doors to enter the stalls from inside the barn swing inward, adding fresh bedding on top of old bedding piles it high which prevents me from being able to even open the door. I have spent more time digging out certain areas (like behind the door so I could open it) and wet spots (which is basically the entire stall) trying to salvage any usable bedding than its worth.
This year I am foregoing this method and am using rubber stall mats to provide a barrier against the cement floor. I am also utilizing a combination of fine pine shavings and absorbent stall refresher to try to make the shavings last between cleanings. Because pine shavings are easier to work with than straw or wasted hay and make spotting wet spots easier, every day or so I will remove any wet spots I can see and give a light sprinkle of PDZ stall refresher. This is an organically approved, natural, and compostable additive that will absorb moisture and ammonia odors in the bedding. It will allow me to stretch the bedding for a week or so depending on the weather, and with some light reapplication of shavings between cleanings it will keep the bedding thick to provide warmth and a good layer to snuggle down into. Regular mucking of the stalls will also be considerably easier because I won’t have months worth of compacted wet bedding to pull out when it’s freezing outside.
So to recap, some things I do to help the bedding stay clean and dry in between regular stall clean outs:
- Designate a stall that you use to go in and out of. This way you are only tracking snow in one, so that you maintain at least one stall stays drier thanks to your wet feet staying out of it.
- Spot clean manure/urine daily. During morning and evening chores I scoop out any wet shavings or heavy manure areas. It takes 2 minutes and helps keep the bedding clean and dry.
- After spot cleaning, give light sprinkling of stall refresher to absorb odors, ammonia, and moisture. Add some fresh shavings as needed, every other day or so.
- Use stall mats. Our stalls have concrete floors, so last year I invested in rubber stall mats. Not only does it help the goats stay warmer as opposed to being on the concrete floor, it makes cleaning so much easier.
- Pick a cleaning schedule and stick to it. I do a full clean out of the stalls once a week no matter what. You never know what the weather may bring, and by doing regular cleanings you have less build up meaning it takes less time to clean them.
Draft Control
Keeping your goats and their bedding dry is only half the battle. While avoiding any kind of dampness is extremely important to help them stay warm and prevent respiratory issues, drafts are equally as dangerous. Frigid temperatures are tolerable for goats, but nothing can take one down quicker than exposure to cold winds. Our stalls have sliding doors that allow me to either fully shut the door if needed, or close it part way. The girls and Annie don’t like being shut in at night and it causes more problems than it solves. However, partially closing the stall doors leaving it open just enough to go in and out is good enough. They will cuddle behind the door which blocks them from the harsh wind, but they still have the ability to go outside if they choose to.
While the boys don’t live in the barn, their house was designed with the opening offset to one side. This way they can cuddle in the corner away from the door opening that protects them from the wind. It is essentially the same concept as the sliding doors, only the opening is a fixed size and instead of the sliding door they have a wall.
Depending on the set up if sliding doors or any door is not an option, sacrificial hay/straw bales work as great wind barriers as well. This is something that I have done in the past, and while it may not be the prettiest thing, it is a cheap and effective alternative. Stacking them up gives the goats something to lay down behind and get out of the wind.
The Overhang
While the overhang doesn’t really help the goats stay warm, it does give additional communal space out of the elements. In the dead of winter when they don’t want to go out in the snow, cabin fever sets in and it can get ugly. The 96 square foot overhang gives them space to move around, stretch their legs, and play on their wire spools even if it’s snowing. Goats hate precipitation, and will refuse to leave the barn. Previously only having the two stalls made them a little crazy during long stretches of snow because they didn’t have a whole lot of space to move around. But, by adding this additional living space for them, I can already tell it’s going to make a world of difference when the snow is flying.
After having goats now for three years, I finally feel like we have the best winter set up we can possibly have. Each year we have learned and improved, the biggest being when we built the mini barn last year. We certainly have come a long way from Karen and Alan living in a dog house their first winter! Whatever your set up is, it’s all about finding what works best for you. Whether your goats live in a dog house or a barn, you have dirt floor stalls or cement, there are ways to keep your animals comfortable and safe throughout the winter months. It may not be prettiest or the fanciest, but all that matters is that it gets the job done.
I have been milking Audrey loyally everyday, three times a day now for about a month. We have developed a nice little routine that I truly enjoy and look forward to. I bounce out of bed first thing anxious to get down to the barn, and am chomping at the bit to get started in the evening. It may lose that new feeling after a while, but that whole fresh milk everyday part will never get old.
When you first start milking a new dairy goat or cow, it can be stressful. You may have issues with them being uncooperative, or you fear did I milk them enough? Am I taking the proper precautions? You don’t want to inadvertently cause production to drop by not emptying their udder, and of course mastitis is always a concern. Because we drink our milk raw, sanitation in the process is of the upmost importance because I don’t have pasteurization as a safeguard. I have to prevent it from getting into the process in the first place, and this is where a routine comes in very handy. If you take the necessary steps and precautions everyday, two or three times a day, it becomes muscle memory and eventually you don’t even have to think about what you’re doing. The routine becomes second nature, and I take comfort knowing I can safely drink my raw milk, while doing everything possible to keep up maximum production and Audrey healthy.
What's in My Basket?
First Things First
Cleanliness. Now it’s no secret to anyone that knows me personally that I am a bit of a neat freak. Well, let’s just say it doesn’t stop at the house. My barn is always swept and tidied up before I head out after I’m doing doing whatever it is i’m doing in there. I always sweep after I milk, never before. Why? Because sweeping up dirt that’s tracked in, hay, and general dust kicks it up into the air and I don’t want that actively floating around while I’m getting my milk on and having it settle in my fresh supply. This may seem a little nuts to some, but here’s a tip….I am nuts! I also always wipe down my milk stand after I milk because well, that just makes sense.
My Routine
So, I go down to the barn, milk stand is clean, and the floors are swept. I turn on my tunes to set the mood and grab Audrey and get her on the stand. While she is munching away, I wipe the bottom of her hooves to remove any poop or hay that may be stuck on. I then wipe down her teats and udder very well with baby wipes to again remove any dirt, debris, etc she’s picked up while laying down. Then I grab a clean baby wipe and give my hands a good cleaning as well. After everything is cleaned properly, I give her a few squirts out of each teat onto the stand.
Now, some people say you have to use a “strip cup” specifically for this, or they use a paper towel. But, my stand is built out of wood, so I can see the milk clear as day on my solid base. The purpose of this is to clear out the teats of any clogs or debris that could have made its way up there, surface bacteria, and identify any blood or issues with the milk itself.
Once she has had a few good cleansing squirts, the milking game begins. Because she has such a tight udder and small teats, I start her off with the hand milker. In addition to getting a lot of milk out quickly, it helps loosen everything up and allows me to easily finish her off with hand milking. This makes for a better experience for her as well as speeding up the process. I frequently dump the milk from my measuring cup into the mason jar secured with a lid. Even the best behaved goats on the stand will let out an unexpected kick and it is a tragedy when the milk falls victim. Whoever said there’s no sense in crying over spilled milk clearly never milked an animal in their life. If she does manage to kick it over or get a foot in it, because I frequently dump, I’m only losing a little as opposed to half a day’s supply.
After she has been milked out, I give her a few good bumps of the udder to let down any milk she’s holding back from me. Emptying her udder fully at each milking will stimulate more production, while also keeping mastitis at bay. After finishing, I wipe her udder and teats down again with baby wipes, then give her a good spray with Fight Bac on each teat for extra insurance against mastitis. If she is still interested in eating, I let her hang out and nibble on grain until she loses interest and gets antsy and let her back in with her friends. I then let the cleanup crew in (read Annie) to clean up any of the overshot milk before I spray and wipe it down with my essential oil and ACV cleaner. After its been given a thorough cleaning, I collect my supplies and sweep up so everything is clean and ready for the next milking.
I hustle back to the house as quickly as possible to get the milk filtered through a mesh coffee filter into a jar. This catches any hair (it’s unavoidable) as well as anything else that has fallen into the milk and strains it out. It gets tucked in the fridge towards the back. Not only is fresh milk best serviced iced cold because it’s delicious, but it is also ideal conditions to keep bacteria levels from getting out of control. Again, the milk is raw, so all bacteria is left in tact!
I was taught how to milk by my friend Angela, whom I also got Ruby, Audrey, and Allison from. This routine has proven to work well for her over the years, and so far it has for me as well. Audrey has given me delicious raw milk that I have had no hesitation in drinking because I know it has been milked in clean conditions, and produced by a healthy goat given the utmost care and highest quality non-gmo/soy free/organic feed. Routine is good. Not only for me, where by through repetition the process is improved and becomes second nature, but for her as well. She knows what to expect, what’s coming next, and is learning to go with the flow and be more at ease. Do you have a milking routine? What works well for you?