Finally the time has come! After breeding, caring for your pregnant doe while waiting a long 145-155 ish days, and recognizing the signs of labor, it’s time to give birth! So, what do you do when goat kids are born?
There are certainly many, many different scenarios that can arise. Kids can need to be re-positioned due to presenting improperly, perhaps need to be pulled, not be breathing when born, etc, etc. This is life being born after all, so many things can go wrong. Way too many to mention. This post is not about everything that can go wrong and how to handle it. What it is about however, is what do you do when goat kids are born to get them off to the best start possible. And let’s not forget those precious does! They need some post birthing love too. So, grab your kidding kit and let’s get to it!
The Kids
Okay, so the kid(s) are born and have officially hit the ground! First, let’s see what a textbook birth looks like. By textbook I mean the kid has presented in the diving position with the front legs forward, with the head tucked between. This would be as opposed to breached (butt first), sideways, etc. She didn’t get stuck, Audrey didn’t struggle, she just slid right out and plopped onto the puppy pad.
Excuse the darkness, it was 5 am afterall…
Immediately After Birth
Once those kids hit the ground you want to make sure they are free from their sac (if it didn’t break) so they don’t drown in their own fluid. Next, you want to make sure their nose and mouth are clear of mucus so they can breathe. Some people use a nose sucker, but for me this is just one more “thing” to lose track of and fumble for in the dark. So, I use my good ole’ fingers to pull away mucus from the nose and scoop it out of the mouth if needed. If it’s really packed in there and you can’t get it cleared, grab the kid by the back legs and let it dangle upside down gently swinging. With the help of gravity, the kid sneezing, and your hands, this will help the mucus clear from the nasal passage.
After the nasal passage has been cleared, give that kid to mama. Let her clean it up! Not only does this cleaning stimulate the kid and help perk it up, it aids in bonding. Unless it is absolutely freezing and I need to get those kids dry stat, I do not rush this process. Drying them off yourself is 100% a matter of the weather and temperature. I have had kids born in March thru June. One of the perks of warmer weather kidding is of course you don’t have to worry about them being wet and cold. In these cases I have let mom clean them off and they air dry without issue. In cold winter temperatures however, human intervention is needed. Dry them off with a hair dryer after mom has cleaned them off a bit, and remember you want to get them bone dry.
Next you need to give each kid a little TLC with some nutrients and umbilical cord treatment. In your kidding kit you should have Nutridrench and Iodine. Give that bottle of Nutridrench a good shake, and give each kid two pumps in their mouth. As for the umbilical cords, depending on where they detached when being born you may want to give them a trim. You don’t want them so long they’re stepping on them, a couple of inches is sufficient.
You can either dip the cords in the iodine, or spray. To dip, fill a shot glass or some other small shallow vesicle with iodine. Hold the kid, and dip the cord up the the belly. You want to get it all the way up to the belly. To spray, simply douse the cord to where it meets the belly with the iodine fitted with a spray bottle. Dipping/ spraying with iodine prevents the risk of a naval infection, which can become serious. This is a simple preventative step, and don’t worry you can’t use too much iodine!
soon after birth
Once your kids are dry, dipped, and drenched it is imperative they get colostrum. Colostrum is what the mother is producing first after birth as opposed to milk. It’s a thick, power punch of nutrients, and most importantly it’s full of antibodies. Kids are born without any immune system, so the antibodies the mother passes on in the colostrum are essential for life.
While I cannot attest to the exact timeline that a kid needs to have colostrum or it will die (spoiler there is no “magic” number). You do want to make sure they get that first drink as soon as possible. My target is always within an hour from birth, although I know many shoot for within 2-3 hours.
Depending on how strong and determined the kid(s) is, as well as how receptive your doe is to nursing, this may require your assistance. It may also require some serious patience. Newborn kids can be quite fumbly, and seem to be able to get the teat everywhere except in their mouth. Help direct the kid to the udder, and if need be direct the teat toward their mouth to help them latch. Hold them to help them stand if need be. If mom is being difficult and isn’t taking to it, rub her flank and speak softly to her. Sometimes kids are up and immediately looking to nurse and have no problems, others struggle. Some moms are naturals, others don’t know what they’re supposed to do and need help from you to show them the way.
If need be, put mom on the milk stand to distract her with grain and restrain her. Put the kid on the stand with her and try the process again. It can be extremely frustrating, but patience is key. Stressing will create stress for her, and won’t help the situation. Once you get a successful latch and everyone figures out “this is what they’re supposed to do” the hard part is (usually) over. Just like the cleaning, nursing is a crucial part of bonding between doe and kids. She will get a flood of hormones that solidify her bond with her babies, and instincts will kick in. There are of course exceptions to the rule, and some goats are just bad moms. But generally speaking, this is the norm.
over the next 24 hours
Like with any newborn animal, you want to monitor them as well as mom over the next 24 hours. Depending on the weather, additional measures may need to be taken to keep the kids warm. They also need to be nursing every 2 hours, so regularly check in on them to make sure that you are seeing them latch on. They still may need some help finding the teat and latching, so it’s good to keep an eye on them.
You will also notice meconium poop for the first day or so. A black, tar-like poop that should be getting cleaned by mom. If she isn’t, regularly clean it off with a damp cloth/baby wipe to prevent blockage. As the kid nurses, the colostrum acts as a laxative and helps push the meconium through their system where it will then change to a runnier and yellowish tinted colostrum poop.
General awareness and the power of observation is not something to disregard. You don’t have to be a “seasoned” breeder to recognize that something may be amiss. If a kid looks lethargic and weak, something is likely going on. Trust your instinct, and intervene if you feel the situation calls for it.
The Doe
Now that we have gotten the kids squared away, it’s time to turn our attention to those mamas. I cannot emphasize how much easier a good mother makes things on you. I also can’t emphasize enough the importance of giving your doe the absolute best care and nutrition so that she in turn can take proper care of her kids.
Immediately After Birth
Once all of the kids have been born, she will soon begin to pass the afterbirth. Whatever you do, DON’T TOUCH IT! Don’t pop it, try to pull it out, etc. Let it hang and release on its own. Sure, it may look gross and you may have to avoid getting whacked with it as she moves around with it dangling out of her backside. But, it will release on its own. Selenium aids in the release of the placenta, and the regimen I follow when caring for a pregnant doe is specifically designed with this scenario in mind. It can happen within 10 minutes of giving birth, or it can take a few hours. But, whatever you do, resist the urge to mess with it.
Just like you gave the babies some nutridrench after being born, you will want to give your doe a couple of pumps as well. It has many essential vitamins and minerals (including selenium) that will help perk her up, release the placenta, and give her the energy to care for her babies. In addition to this, I also offer fresh warm water with a little bit of molasses added for a sugar boost and to encourage her to drink, as well as plenty of grain with pregnancy tonic mixed in.
soon after birth
Don’t be surprised if your doe is not interested in eating immediately and may be preoccupied with her babies. But, you do want to make sure she eats and drinks as soon as possible afterwards. She needs calories and water for energy and to make milk for her kids.
You also want to keep an eye on her to make absolutely sure that she passes and releases her placenta. Animals will eat it (and I encourage such behavior) so you can’t always rely on being able to find it. If the placenta doesn’t detach and release but is retained, this can cause a serious infection if left un-diagnosed and treated.
Another thing to keep an eye on is your doe’s udder. Check to make sure the teats aren’t block and milk is flowing properly, as well as for any signs of mastitis (redness, hard and hot to the touch) in the udder. Keep an eye on her, and generally observe her behavior for anything that could indicate that there is an infection, milk fever, etc. Early detection is critical.
over the next 24 hours
Over the next 24 hours and beyond, you are going to do a lot of observing. Continue to check to make milk is flowing and there are no signs of mastitis. Make sure she’s eating, drinking, and appears to be in general good health. Her body will continue to flush out even over a week after kidding, so blood and brownish discharge is normal. I continue to feed out the pregnancy tonic up to two weeks after kidding as this helps reduce the postpartum bleeding.
Towards the end of the first day after kidding, I always milk out some colostrum for the freezer. This is a very good thing to keep on hand for future kiddings or even if you breed pigs and sheep. Some goats’ milk is delayed coming in, or god forbid if something happens to your doe during labor it’s even more critical. Colostrum from the first 24 hours as well as at least a gallon of milk is something that I always keep in my freezer just in case. I have never had to use it yet, but it’s comforting that it’s there if a situation arises.
Deworming immediately after kidding is common practice. After labor, your doe is in a vulnerable position to be overrun with a parasite load. If neglected, it can and will get out of control and can create serious adverse health affects. Most dewormers require an initial dose to handle adult/larval stage. Then, a follow up dose x number of days after the initial, to kill the secondary load that matured from the eggs the initial dose didn’t handle. There are many types of dewormers that are specific to different types of parasites. Most are approved for use during pregnancy, and others aren’t. Some people will time it to give the initial dewormer dose during late stages of pregnancy, with the second dose occurring right after kidding. Others will do both doses after kidding. Talk to your vet and see what protocol they recommend for you, but it’s best to be prepared ahead of time.
Every kidding can bring certain challenges. Sometimes things just plain go wrong no matter how much you’re prepared or have done everything you possible could. Like I sad before, these are live animals we are dealing with, expect the unexpected. But, don’t underestimate the power of being an observant steward to your animals. Even though it takes no experience or training, it is something that shouldn’t be disregarded.
Be prepared, have a plan, and trust your gut. Hopefully you feel a little more knowledgeable now about what to do when goat kids are born.
Happy Kidding,
So you’re thinking about getting some goats this spring are you? I can’t say I blame you, they truly are just about the cutest things and can bring so much joy (and delicious milk) to your life. When I first got goats a few years ago I admittedly knew nothing about them. Which is why I am writing about what you should know before getting goats. I originally got a doeling and buckling (that we castrated to become a wether) from Craigslist strictly for the purpose of land clearing. We had no barn, they slept in a doghouse, and we used panel fencing they constantly escaped from to rotate around our overgrown property. I had no clue what I was getting myself into.
Ohhhhhh how the tides have turned since then. I now raise a small herd of dairy goats (my original doeling has been rehomed) and they are raised and bred for the purpose of milk production. The dog house is a thing of the past, and they now live in the mini barn that we built for them. They are fed a completely different diet, and have a permanent pasture while being occasionally rotated to clear with poly wire netting. I have learned a lot of things the hard way to say the least, but I finally have a good system in place. There are a lot of things I wish I knew before getting them that may have saved me some headaches, money, and sleepless nights. There are also some things I knew I was signing up for, but you might not! So, if you are new to or are thinking about getting goats, below are some of the top things that I think are very important to know!
1. Fencing, Fencing, FENCING!
The reason why this topic is number one is because it’s the one thing that has caused more grief and headaches than anything else with goats. Simply put, they are master escape artists. If they can find a way out and have the desire to, they will make it happen. I have personally witnessed my goats walk up to a fence eyeball it, back up, walk up, eyeball it, then turn around and get a running start and use a rock as leverage point to propel over. Olympic athletes have nothing on these guys! Was it due to lack of forage? Nope. They were just jumpers and did it because they wanted to, and they could.
We have used every kind of fence imaginable from panels, welded wire, woven wire, to polywire electric netting. Some goats are just jumpers simply put, and if you get one that is, my thoughts are with you. It’s not fun, and basically the only way to stop them is to fork over a lot of money and invest in a rather tall fence they can’t jump over. But then, they may find a way to crawl under. My original doeling that has since been rehomed to a different farm was my notorious problem child. She could propel herself over anything if she put her mind to it. My current goats couldn’t care less or be bothered to attempt an escape, and I haven’t had an escapee in almost two years. It’s just luck of the draw.
I can’t stress enough though, that you should be prepared for the worst and it’s a lot cheaper in the long run to buy the right fencing at first (even if it’s a little pricier) than getting the cheap stuff and have to replace it due to escapes. I am not by any means exaggerating when I say we have spent thousands of dollars to fence in our goats. Depending on what your setup is, you can make your own fencing decision but I’m going to explain what I have for fencing here and why:
- Cattle Panels:
- Feedlot panels (6′ x 16′): These are by the far the most expensive panel I have ever seen or purchased, but in the small paddock directly off the back of the stalls of the barn this stuff is what encloses it. This panel is tall enough to deter anything from jumping over (whether that be out or in) and the squares are so small the entire way up that even the smallest Nigerian Dwarf baby goat can’t squeeze through. When the kids are very young they don’t get to go out into the big pasture quite yet, so they stay in the smaller paddock with mom. This allows them to be truly contained and safe.
- Feedlot hog panels (50″ x 16′): These are cheap at a local TSC in comparison to the aforementioned Fort Knox grade panels. These are used in approximately half of our big pasture and make setting up fencing really easy and are much more aesthetically pleasing than spooled fencing. They also have small enough squares on the bottom half of the panel to keep babies from slipping through.
- Welded wire: While it may have its uses say around a garden, I don’t recommend it for goats. Why? Because goats loooooove to rub on fences. There is a reason why welded wire is the cheapest type of fencing, and long term compared to others it will have to be replaced more frequently.
- Woven wire: Used in approximately half of my large pasture for the goats. It can be a little bit of a pain to get set up because you have to do a lot of pulling and stapling to prevent a saggy fence, but it does hold up very well to rubbing and is cheaper than panels if you’re fencing a large area. My recommendation is to get the tallest one you can to deter jumping, and with the smallest squares. If you end up getting goats with horns, if they can stick their head through they will get stuck and can strangle themselves. Small squares keep this from happening and help prevent baby goats from being able to slip through.
- Electric Polywire Netting: If you are going to rotate your goats even somewhat regularly, this is the way to go. It’s easy to set up, take down, and move. Even escape artist goats can respect it when properly trained. We use it to rotate our pigs, chickens, sheep, and goats. There is a reason it’s in the background of almost any photo of my animals in spring thru fall, I can’t say enough good things about it.
2. Horns versus No Horns
Horns versus no horns is a highly debated and touchy subject much like dam raises versus bottle fed. But, like anything else I truly believe it is a matter of personal preference and of course your decision to make. The first two goats I got were horned and after that I swore I would never have goats with horns again.
A goat’s horns are like little battering rams and they can do some serious damage. Not only have I had to practically break their necks trying to get them unstuck from the fence they had themselves caught in (this was before we had to buy better fencing with smaller squares they couldn’t get stuck in), but they have accidentally hurt each other as well as my livestock guardian dog. In a domesticated setting such as ours, they just aren’t necessary and can do more harm than good. While a goat without horns can still harm another goat, the chances are much less than one with horns.
Some people on the other hand love their goats with horns because it’s the natural way, or if they show them and the breed standard calls for horns then they have to leave them on. Regardless of what you choose, it’s something you want to seriously consider when getting your first goats.
3. Breed & Sex Choice - Is Dairy on My Radar?
The purpose of the goats on your property will steer you in the directions of what breed you will want to get. If they’re for meat then Boer goats or a cross are the obvious choice. If they’re for pets or land clearing then the choices are endless and it is a matter of what breed interests you. Keep in mind the size of the goat, and consider how much room you are able to allot them, what kind of housing you can provide, and how many you can comfortably raise on that space.
We got our original goats for land clearing so I didn’t really care what breed they were or if they were does or wethers. They were nigerian dwarf crosses, which made them very easy to move around and manage. But, it wasn’t long after we got them that I wanted to start focusing on dairy. The fact that I had a wether and a doe with unknown dairy lineage didn’t leave me in the best position.
So, my advice is if you have any inkling that dairy may be on your radar at some point, keep that in mind when selecting your breed and the sex of your goats. If I could do it all over again I would have never gotten a wether. They can’t be used to breed or be bred, so with a focus on dairy they’re kind of of useless (sorry Alan!). I also would have been more choosy about the breed I got as well as their lineage focusing on dairy, rather than whatever Craigslist had to offer at that time. Getting into the world of dairy opens a whole new can of worms as you start to consider milk production as well as butterfat content. But, that’s a topic that deserves a post all in itself!
4. Urinary Calculi
It’s tough to be a wether. You get all of the same urges to breed as the bucks, but you lack the equipment to back it up. When a buck is castrated and becomes a wether, not only does he lose his manhood, but testosterone production and urethra development stop. A narrow urethra makes them extremely susceptible to developing urinary calculi. UC is a very serious medical condition where kidney stones are formed that the goat cannot pass. It’s an issue that if left untreated or caught too late, will result in death. It can rapidly escalate, and sometimes it’s impossible to catch in time. So prevention is key! I have only experienced it once, and it was a very hard (and expensive) learning experience for me.
All goats whether they be does, bucks, or wethers require a 2:1 Calcium to Phosphorus ratio as part of their basic nutrition. When the phosphorus ratio gets out of balance, this is what causes these stones to develop that lead to blockage. Yes, UC is possible in does and bucks, but it is rare when compared to the number of cases it’s seen in wethers.
So, if you’re getting wethers you will want to take this into consideration what you are feeding them and providing loose minerals. Everyone has a different opinion on if wethers should or should not eat grain. But, I have always heard it is a common cause for UC. This is what caused it in my situation, and ever since then I switched to strictly feeding alfafa to wethers and bucks at my vets recommendation in addition to hay and forage. Never grain, and I haven’t had an issue since.
5. Housing
When we got our first goats, they lived in a large dog house. No fancy barn, not even a shed. Just a regular large dog house. And you know what? It worked! It limped us along our first full year keeping them. They had plenty of room to be comfortable, yet it was small enough that it made it easy for us to pick up and move when we rotated them. We have come a long way and have since built our mini barn to accomodate our expanding herd and needs for additional hay storage, as well as a place to milk.
But, if your herd is not for dairy and you don’t need all of that additional space, you don’t have to go all out for housing. There are so many different options that are perfectly suited for raising goats even in the winter as long as they have sufficient bedding and you keep it clean! Repurposed sheds, quonset huts, carports, pallet buildings, the possibilities are endless. You can go as expensive or as cheap as you want, and still provide suitable housing for your herd.
6. Routine Care
Regardless of the reason you keep your goats, there is some basic routine care that is required above making sure they have food and water. Giving an annual CD&T booster is the universal recommended vaccine to prevent tetanus and enterotoxemia. Both of these are deadly for goats, and the vaccine is cheap insurance against them that you can easily administer yourself.
Trimming hooves is another necessary part of keeping goats. While some may have to do it more frequently than others if their goats are raised on pasture versus a rockier terrain, it is something that has to be done. Neglected hooves become overgrown and can lead to hoof rot and separation of the wall and sole. This can result in lameness. Maintaining hooves is simple and something that should be done on a regular basis to prevent health issues.
7. Herd Dynamics
Everyone knows you can’t just have one goat. If you’ve never heard that then you just learned something new! Goats are incredibly social animals, and for this I would never suggest getting just one as they need a friend.
As your herd continues to grow, you will notice a natural pecking order begin to form with the herd queen on top. Yes, goats too have a pecking order, it’s not just for chickens! Herd queens come in many forms. Some are the strong silent type that rule gently, while others like my former herd queen Karen rule with an abusive iron fist. This social hierarchy is part of natural herd dynamics, so some head butting and pushing around is to be expected. It is a matriarchy, so the higher ranking goats pick on the lower ranking ones. But, sometimes it can get out of hand depending on the personality of your herd queen. Because of her growing aggressiveness towards my other does, I ended up re-homing Karen to a new farm. Audrey, another one of my does seamlessly stepped in to assume the role and she does so with grace .
8. Fresh Water
Fresh water is essential with keeping any livestock. If you want one of the best and easiest ways to keep your herd as healthy as possible, start with fresh water! Even in the winter, this is essential and I give my goats fresh water every day twice a day.
While this may seem like common knowledge to some (and it is) I have seen and heard of some really skanky water being left out for goats. This is just asking for problems, and remember “dilution is the solution to pollution”. So, in cases of UC in wethers like I mentioned above, lots of fresh water is key to helping the stones flush from their system!
9. Keep it Clean
Much like fresh water, I feel like this is also common sense. Keep your goats bedding dry and clean! This is cheap insurance to keep health issues at bay and not to mention just being a good steward to your animals. Goats don’t like to be wet or damp, so keeping their bedding clean and dry keeps them comfortable while reducing respiratory issues among other things.
Goats are not like pigs in the sense that they won’t go to the bathroom where they eat or sleep. A goat has no sense of hygiene when it comes to this, and they will quite literally poop and lay down in it. So, it’s our responsibility to keep it clean. Think of them as the kids that make a mess and never clean up after themselves. You are signing up for a lifetime (well, their lifetime) of cleaning out bedding. Know this going into getting your first goats
10. Parasites
There are a lot of parasites out there that can affect your herd, some are more concerning than others. There are various worming protocols that you can follow, but there are some things that you can do for preventative measures:
Pasture rotation is one of the best ways to naturally keep down parasite loads. Rotation allows the parasite cycle to break without a host for the parasite to complete its life cycle. If pasture rotation is not an option, the best possible advice I can give is to never feed your goat on the ground directly. I’m talking about hay or grain, always put it in a dish or a feeder. Now you’re probably thinking but they eat grass? Yes, but they are typically fed by or in the barn, where there is high traffic meaning poop. By not eating food directly on the ground in these high traffic areas you’re reducing the risk of them consuming eggs of a parasite they carried in on their hooves or they’re already shedding. Food dishes are cheap and we built our hay feeders out of scrap material. This is not a way to 100% prevent them from getting worms, it’s going to happen to you at some point. But, feeding off the ground is just another layer of protection to reduce their exposure. It doesn’t have to be overly fancy, just keep it off the ground.
11. Learn Your Goats "Normal"
Goats are pretty amazing animals. They are somehow incredibly sensitive, yet very strong and resilient at the same time. I mean, what other animal can give birth to five babies on her own without issue but scream and cry like she’s being murdered if she’s caught in the rain?
Joking aside, goats can become very sick with little notice and die quickly if left untreated. So, know your goats normal. Know what her average temperature is, maybe it always runs a little high or low than “normal”? Know if she is typically standoffish and is more laid back, or if she’s always front of the line. I could talk about each one of my goats personalities and behaviors in intimate detail like they’re characters on a tv show, and I know if something is amiss. Why? Because I pay attention. I observe them, I pay attention to how they interact with each other, with me, how they behave when milking. That way, when something seems off, this gives me an indication to check them out because something may be wrong. With goats, early detection and prevention is key.
12. Keep a Stocked Medical Kit and have a Relationship with Your Vet
Because goats can go downhill quickly with no notice, it is essential to keep a well stocked medicine cabinet. Keeping commonly needed supplies and medications on hand will give you the needed quick response that can mean the difference between life and death. While I have a kit that keeps me well stocked in a lot of basic veterinary supplies, I have other medications that I keep on hand that I got from my vet in case of an emergency.
While my vet is good and knowledgeable, they aren’t exactly close by. If I were in an emergency situation and I needed a certain medication that could at least help until she can get here, I try to keep that on hand. You can’t get everything from Tractor Supply or Jeffers, and in addition to a vets knowledge and ability to diagnose, you need them for many life saving prescription medications. Forming a close working relationship with a trusted vet is critical when raising livestock.
Are you an experienced goat keeper and have some words of wisdom you would like to add? Drop it in the comments below for those just starting out!
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Kidding season is an incredibly exciting time on the homestead! But, waiting for those highly anticipated babies can feel like watching paint dry. There are several signs of goat labor, or that labor is looming and you need to keep a closer eye on your doe. Watch my short and sweet video below on signs to look for to know if your goat is going to kid soon! Just a side note, Audrey kidded the night I filmed this video 
Just remember that every goat and every kidding is different. You may see some of these signs, or all of them. The timing of labor after seeing them will certainly change from goat to goat and kidding to kidding. In this particular kidding with Audrey, her ligaments got incredibly soft but they never were fully gone to the point that she had a broken tail appearance. She still kidded twelve hours after filming the ligament portion of this video though! These signs do not have a timeline cast in stone, they just give you a heads up to keep a very close eye on her because she will kid soon!
Check out my other kidding related posts on a kidding birth kit and caring for you doe during pregnancy to make sure you are as prepared as possible!
Check out my Youtube Channel for other videos
Happy Kidding,
Being the sole caretaker of my animals, it is my responsibility to give my pregnant girls the absolute best care possible to ensure a healthy pregnancy and the easiest delivery possible. It is a responsibility that I also happen to take very seriously. Now, with that being said, sometimes despite how far above and beyond you go with your care, stuff just happens that’s out of your control. This is a hard lesson I learned this year with my first farrowing. But, the best thing you can possibly do for a healthy doe and kids is to give mom the best care possible during her pregnancy.
Some of the care comes towards the end of the pregnancy, while some is just general health and responsibly caring for your doe before being bred. Once a dairy goat is of breeding age, at any given point throughout the year she is either pregnant, lactating, or both. Each require a certain level of care to maintain health and body condition.
Body Condition & General Health
Before your doe is even bred, she should be in good body condition not only for the best chance of the pregnancy settling but for her health as well. A good body condition is an ideal balance of fat and muscle. There are various things that can affect body condition above and beyond over and under feeding. Age, parasites, disease, whether the doe has ever been bred, and the point in her lactation cycle can all have an effect. Too thin is equally as detrimental as too heavy, and can lead to fertility issues, pregnancy toxemia/ketosis, labor difficulties, and higher risk of kid mortality. Being in good body condition will set her up for as healthy of a pregnancy as possible, meaning healthier kids and stronger milk production. If you are unsure how to determine your dairy goat’s body condition score, here is a great video that goes over the scoring system. Whether you’re doing linear appraisal or not, this video will show you what to look for to determine if your doe is too heavy, too thin, or just right.
In addition to body condition, careful attention should be taken to provide any additional supplements she may be deficient in. Being deficient in certain vitamins and minerals can affect fertility and stillborn rates, and sometimes feed and loose minerals isn’t enough. I personally live in a selenium and copper deficient area of the country, so as a preventative measure I give my entire herd a dose of Replamin Gel Plus weekly. It includes many essential vitamins and minerals in addition to the selenium and copper we are deficient in. Administering this weekly has made a huge difference in the thickness and quality of their coats, skin health, and has prevented fertility issues due to providing the much needed selenium and copper naturally lacking. Before breeding season, I recommend that you look into what your area may be deficient in and handle accordingly to prevent potential issues. Whether it be a weekly supplement or a shot your vet can administer, it is worth looking into.
Feeding
Providing your doe with a proper diet is a delicate balance. There are so many variables including quality of hay and grain, breed, and size of the goat. With so many different types of grain and brands, not to mention hay quality, all I can do is speak to what I do here.
I feed out organic second cut hay, and my backup is organic early first cut. These cuttings have the highest nutrient content possible and I fill their hay feeders both morning and at night. Easy enough right? If only…
Throughout the winter regardless of pregnancy, for my winter care regimen (but it just so happens winter is when everyone is pregnant anyway) I also feed out one cup of New Country Organics Goat Pellets to each doe every night. Because they like to bounce around from dish to dish, starting at about six weeks out from her due date I will feed the expecting mother on the milk stand separately. Not only does this get her into the habit of getting on the stand again, but it ensures that she is getting all the grain for her growing babies. When she has a month to go before kidding, I up the grain to one and a half to two cups to accommodate for the rapid growth the kids are going through at this point in gestation.
Grain is a bit of a hot topic issue. Depending on who you ask you will get different opinions on what (if any) grain to feed out during pregnancy and how much. Some swear by feeding out alfalfa pellets late in gestation for additional calcium to aid in labor and milk production, while others say absolutely not due to hypocalcemia. I have found goats to be incredibly tricky as there is a lot of conflicting information out there depending on who you ask.
Regardless of this, pregnancy toxemia is a risk if excessive grain is given during the final month of pregnancy, while ketosis can happen after kidding if not given enough grain. Like I said, it’s a balance! It can be difficult to maintain, but keeping an eye on body condition late in gestation and getting to know your goat’s body will help you determine if she’s getting enough or too much to eat.
Herbal Supplements
Once I start feeding the expectant mother on the milk stand six weeks before her due date I start top dressing 1/4 cup of Molly’s Herbals Pregnancy Tonic on her feed as well. This natural herbal supplement containing red raspberry leaf, alfalfa, rose hips, fennel, and cinnamon has huge benefits to a pregnant doe and I swear by it. Some of the benefits (straight from the site) include:
- Aid in preventing miscarriage and hemorrhage
- Aid in reducing pain during labor and after birth; by helping to tone the muscles used during labor and delivery.
- Strengthen the uterus
- Aid in providing a safe and speedy birth; helps to encourage the uterus to let go and function without tension. This does not strengthen contractions, but does allow the contracting uterus to work more effectively and so make the birth easier and faster.
- Aid in colostrum / milk production and quality.
- When consumed after birth, this Pregnancy Tonic may help decrease uterine swelling and cut down on post partum bleeding.
- Supplies Vitamins A, Bs, C, E, K, D. High in Calcium and contains phosphorus, iron. potassium and enzymes and trace minerals.
I used tonic last year throughout the last trimester of my doe Karen’s pregnancy. She had a textbook kidding in every way imaginable. Her labor was quick, she quickly released the placenta, and there was minimal post partum bleeding. I largely thank the Molly’s Herbals for this, and will always feed it to my pregnant does!
Shave Her Up
Shortly before kidding you will want to give your does udder, backs of legs, and vulva area a thorough shaving with an electric razor. Not only will this make clean up easier after birthing, but a clean shaved udder will make it easier for the kids to nurse and easily find the teats.
I have maintained (and still do!) that dairy goats are some of the most difficult animals to keep. They can be so delicate yet tough at the same time, and so many things can go wrong during pregnancy, kidding, and with milk production. There is conflicting information everywhere you turn, and it can be extremely frustrating. But, once you have a reliable grain, hay, and supplement regimen you figure out a rhythm that works for you. Feeding quality feed is the best you can do just like with any other animal. But, I also believe that what works and what doesn’t work largely is affected by animals living conditions, as well as the area of the country you live in and its deficiencies.
All of the care I mentioned above is what I do, and what I learned from my friend and amazing goat mentor Angela with some of my own research. This works for me and gives my herd the best chance possible at a healthy pregnancy and kids! Do you give special care/ treatment/ feeding/ supplements to your pregnant does? Let’s hear what you do below!
Spring is right around the corner and with that comes kidding season! Just like with any other animal that’s preparing to give birth, I like to have a well stocked birthing kit on hand that can cover my bases for the most common problems that potentially arise. I do not want to be in the midst of a situation and not have something on hand that could help the doe or the baby if I can help it.
Now I am far from an expert, and I am not a veterinarian. This list is merely what I have accumulated, and other people’s kits may include or exclude some of these items. So I highly recommend that you do have a vet you can contact in case of an emergency, and even consult them about what you should include in your kit in preparation for kidding!
What's In My Kit
Things to Dry Those Babies Off!
- Blow Dryer
- Towels
- Puppy pads/paper feed bags
- Sweaters
- Heat Lamp
Regardless of the climate you live in, it is essential to get those babies dry and warm once they’re born. Puppy potty pads or paper feed bags work great to catch the babies on once they are born as a way to contain all of the birthing goo and keep bedding clean and dry. They should then be towel dried (puppy pads also work!) and then blow dried to get completely dry and work as a quick warm up.
If it’s really cold, goat sweaters come in handy to help them stay warm and if you really need it heat lamps. I have always been scared of heat lamps due to their fire hazard, but last year I made the switch to Premier 1 Prima heat lamps due to their many safety features. They give me peace of mind knowing my goat kids, lambs, and piglets are safe and warm.
Immediately After Birth and Dry Off
- Nutri-Drench
- Iodine
- Glass to dip cord in (tall shot class works well)
- Floss/fishing line
- Colostrum/colostrum replacer
Once the kid(s) have been completely dried off, I put a pump of Nutri-Drench in everyone’s mouth including mom. This gives them a nutrient and vitamin boost as well as molasses for energy. I give this immediately after drying off, even before nursing to give them a much needed quick boost of energy.
The umbilical cord also needs to be dipped in iodine all the way up to the belly. This sterilizes the cord and prevents any kind of infection from entering. It will eventually dry up and fall off on its own. I keep dental floss and/or fishing line on hand as well in case the umbilical cord didn’t break on its own during birth. If it doesn’t, tie it off with floss or fishing line to stop blood flow and carefully cut the cord with your thumb nail.
Making sure the babies start nursing from mom as soon as possible after kidding is essential. The colostrum the mother is producing simply put is liquid gold and without it the kid will likely not survive. Sometimes however, you have latching issues or production issues and it just can’t happen. So, keeping frozen colostrum on hand in the freezer (this is ideal!!!) or kid colostrum replacement is a must. If you have the frozen colostrum and need to use it, do not microwave to thaw. Let it gently thaw in warm water so you don’t “cook” it.
Expect the Unexpected
There are various things I keep in on hand for general health care as well as in case of an emergency with the babies or doe during kidding. I have used every single item below in one scenario or another, and they are all essential when keeping goats. All of these items can be sourced from your local farm store and online farm supply stores such as Jeffers. These items include:
- Molasses
- Thermometer
- Gloves
- Lube
- CMPK drench/paste
- Dosing gun/syringe
- Vitamin B Complex ( I use injectable)
- Penn-G
- LA-300
- Ivermectin Sheep Pour on & Injectable
- Various Sryinges (18 gauge & 20 gauge)
- Sanitary Wipes
- Electrolytes
- Pritchard Nipples
- Bottle (old pop bottle)
- Diagram of birthing positions
Prescription Medications to Keep on Hand
- Banamine
- Dexamethasone
These are all the items that I currently keep in my goat/kid kit, and I have had to use in one situation or another whether it be for my goats or pigs. Depending on your situation, you may need items not included on this list or may never need items that I have included. Over time you will accumulate supplies as needed, but this is a great place to start.
Do you keep any items in your kidding kit for the babies or mom that I didn’t include? Let’s hear them below and why!
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