So you’re thinking about getting some goats this spring are you? I can’t say I blame you, they truly are just about the cutest things and can bring so much joy (and delicious milk) to your life. When I first got goats a few years ago I admittedly knew nothing about them. Which is why I am writing about what you should know before getting goats. I originally got a doeling and buckling (that we castrated to become a wether) from Craigslist strictly for the purpose of land clearing. We had no barn, they slept in a doghouse, and we used panel fencing they constantly escaped from to rotate around our overgrown property. I had no clue what I was getting myself into.
Ohhhhhh how the tides have turned since then. I now raise a small herd of dairy goats (my original doeling has been rehomed) and they are raised and bred for the purpose of milk production. The dog house is a thing of the past, and they now live in the mini barn that we built for them. They are fed a completely different diet, and have a permanent pasture while being occasionally rotated to clear with poly wire netting. I have learned a lot of things the hard way to say the least, but I finally have a good system in place. There are a lot of things I wish I knew before getting them that may have saved me some headaches, money, and sleepless nights. There are also some things I knew I was signing up for, but you might not! So, if you are new to or are thinking about getting goats, below are some of the top things that I think are very important to know!
1. Fencing, Fencing, FENCING!
The reason why this topic is number one is because it’s the one thing that has caused more grief and headaches than anything else with goats. Simply put, they are master escape artists. If they can find a way out and have the desire to, they will make it happen. I have personally witnessed my goats walk up to a fence eyeball it, back up, walk up, eyeball it, then turn around and get a running start and use a rock as leverage point to propel over. Olympic athletes have nothing on these guys! Was it due to lack of forage? Nope. They were just jumpers and did it because they wanted to, and they could.
We have used every kind of fence imaginable from panels, welded wire, woven wire, to polywire electric netting. Some goats are just jumpers simply put, and if you get one that is, my thoughts are with you. It’s not fun, and basically the only way to stop them is to fork over a lot of money and invest in a rather tall fence they can’t jump over. But then, they may find a way to crawl under. My original doeling that has since been rehomed to a different farm was my notorious problem child. She could propel herself over anything if she put her mind to it. My current goats couldn’t care less or be bothered to attempt an escape, and I haven’t had an escapee in almost two years. It’s just luck of the draw.
I can’t stress enough though, that you should be prepared for the worst and it’s a lot cheaper in the long run to buy the right fencing at first (even if it’s a little pricier) than getting the cheap stuff and have to replace it due to escapes. I am not by any means exaggerating when I say we have spent thousands of dollars to fence in our goats. Depending on what your setup is, you can make your own fencing decision but I’m going to explain what I have for fencing here and why:
- Cattle Panels:
- Feedlot panels (6′ x 16′): These are by the far the most expensive panel I have ever seen or purchased, but in the small paddock directly off the back of the stalls of the barn this stuff is what encloses it. This panel is tall enough to deter anything from jumping over (whether that be out or in) and the squares are so small the entire way up that even the smallest Nigerian Dwarf baby goat can’t squeeze through. When the kids are very young they don’t get to go out into the big pasture quite yet, so they stay in the smaller paddock with mom. This allows them to be truly contained and safe.
- Feedlot hog panels (50″ x 16′): These are cheap at a local TSC in comparison to the aforementioned Fort Knox grade panels. These are used in approximately half of our big pasture and make setting up fencing really easy and are much more aesthetically pleasing than spooled fencing. They also have small enough squares on the bottom half of the panel to keep babies from slipping through.
- Welded wire: While it may have its uses say around a garden, I don’t recommend it for goats. Why? Because goats loooooove to rub on fences. There is a reason why welded wire is the cheapest type of fencing, and long term compared to others it will have to be replaced more frequently.
- Woven wire: Used in approximately half of my large pasture for the goats. It can be a little bit of a pain to get set up because you have to do a lot of pulling and stapling to prevent a saggy fence, but it does hold up very well to rubbing and is cheaper than panels if you’re fencing a large area. My recommendation is to get the tallest one you can to deter jumping, and with the smallest squares. If you end up getting goats with horns, if they can stick their head through they will get stuck and can strangle themselves. Small squares keep this from happening and help prevent baby goats from being able to slip through.
- Electric Polywire Netting: If you are going to rotate your goats even somewhat regularly, this is the way to go. It’s easy to set up, take down, and move. Even escape artist goats can respect it when properly trained. We use it to rotate our pigs, chickens, sheep, and goats. There is a reason it’s in the background of almost any photo of my animals in spring thru fall, I can’t say enough good things about it.
2. Horns versus No Horns
Horns versus no horns is a highly debated and touchy subject much like dam raises versus bottle fed. But, like anything else I truly believe it is a matter of personal preference and of course your decision to make. The first two goats I got were horned and after that I swore I would never have goats with horns again.
A goat’s horns are like little battering rams and they can do some serious damage. Not only have I had to practically break their necks trying to get them unstuck from the fence they had themselves caught in (this was before we had to buy better fencing with smaller squares they couldn’t get stuck in), but they have accidentally hurt each other as well as my livestock guardian dog. In a domesticated setting such as ours, they just aren’t necessary and can do more harm than good. While a goat without horns can still harm another goat, the chances are much less than one with horns.
Some people on the other hand love their goats with horns because it’s the natural way, or if they show them and the breed standard calls for horns then they have to leave them on. Regardless of what you choose, it’s something you want to seriously consider when getting your first goats.
3. Breed & Sex Choice - Is Dairy on My Radar?
The purpose of the goats on your property will steer you in the directions of what breed you will want to get. If they’re for meat then Boer goats or a cross are the obvious choice. If they’re for pets or land clearing then the choices are endless and it is a matter of what breed interests you. Keep in mind the size of the goat, and consider how much room you are able to allot them, what kind of housing you can provide, and how many you can comfortably raise on that space.
We got our original goats for land clearing so I didn’t really care what breed they were or if they were does or wethers. They were nigerian dwarf crosses, which made them very easy to move around and manage. But, it wasn’t long after we got them that I wanted to start focusing on dairy. The fact that I had a wether and a doe with unknown dairy lineage didn’t leave me in the best position.
So, my advice is if you have any inkling that dairy may be on your radar at some point, keep that in mind when selecting your breed and the sex of your goats. If I could do it all over again I would have never gotten a wether. They can’t be used to breed or be bred, so with a focus on dairy they’re kind of of useless (sorry Alan!). I also would have been more choosy about the breed I got as well as their lineage focusing on dairy, rather than whatever Craigslist had to offer at that time. Getting into the world of dairy opens a whole new can of worms as you start to consider milk production as well as butterfat content. But, that’s a topic that deserves a post all in itself!
4. Urinary Calculi
It’s tough to be a wether. You get all of the same urges to breed as the bucks, but you lack the equipment to back it up. When a buck is castrated and becomes a wether, not only does he lose his manhood, but testosterone production and urethra development stop. A narrow urethra makes them extremely susceptible to developing urinary calculi. UC is a very serious medical condition where kidney stones are formed that the goat cannot pass. It’s an issue that if left untreated or caught too late, will result in death. It can rapidly escalate, and sometimes it’s impossible to catch in time. So prevention is key! I have only experienced it once, and it was a very hard (and expensive) learning experience for me.
All goats whether they be does, bucks, or wethers require a 2:1 Calcium to Phosphorus ratio as part of their basic nutrition. When the phosphorus ratio gets out of balance, this is what causes these stones to develop that lead to blockage. Yes, UC is possible in does and bucks, but it is rare when compared to the number of cases it’s seen in wethers.
So, if you’re getting wethers you will want to take this into consideration what you are feeding them and providing loose minerals. Everyone has a different opinion on if wethers should or should not eat grain. But, I have always heard it is a common cause for UC. This is what caused it in my situation, and ever since then I switched to strictly feeding alfafa to wethers and bucks at my vets recommendation in addition to hay and forage. Never grain, and I haven’t had an issue since.
5. Housing
When we got our first goats, they lived in a large dog house. No fancy barn, not even a shed. Just a regular large dog house. And you know what? It worked! It limped us along our first full year keeping them. They had plenty of room to be comfortable, yet it was small enough that it made it easy for us to pick up and move when we rotated them. We have come a long way and have since built our mini barn to accomodate our expanding herd and needs for additional hay storage, as well as a place to milk.
But, if your herd is not for dairy and you don’t need all of that additional space, you don’t have to go all out for housing. There are so many different options that are perfectly suited for raising goats even in the winter as long as they have sufficient bedding and you keep it clean! Repurposed sheds, quonset huts, carports, pallet buildings, the possibilities are endless. You can go as expensive or as cheap as you want, and still provide suitable housing for your herd.
6. Routine Care
Regardless of the reason you keep your goats, there is some basic routine care that is required above making sure they have food and water. Giving an annual CD&T booster is the universal recommended vaccine to prevent tetanus and enterotoxemia. Both of these are deadly for goats, and the vaccine is cheap insurance against them that you can easily administer yourself.
Trimming hooves is another necessary part of keeping goats. While some may have to do it more frequently than others if their goats are raised on pasture versus a rockier terrain, it is something that has to be done. Neglected hooves become overgrown and can lead to hoof rot and separation of the wall and sole. This can result in lameness. Maintaining hooves is simple and something that should be done on a regular basis to prevent health issues.
7. Herd Dynamics
Everyone knows you can’t just have one goat. If you’ve never heard that then you just learned something new! Goats are incredibly social animals, and for this I would never suggest getting just one as they need a friend.
As your herd continues to grow, you will notice a natural pecking order begin to form with the herd queen on top. Yes, goats too have a pecking order, it’s not just for chickens! Herd queens come in many forms. Some are the strong silent type that rule gently, while others like my former herd queen Karen rule with an abusive iron fist. This social hierarchy is part of natural herd dynamics, so some head butting and pushing around is to be expected. It is a matriarchy, so the higher ranking goats pick on the lower ranking ones. But, sometimes it can get out of hand depending on the personality of your herd queen. Because of her growing aggressiveness towards my other does, I ended up re-homing Karen to a new farm. Audrey, another one of my does seamlessly stepped in to assume the role and she does so with grace .
8. Fresh Water
Fresh water is essential with keeping any livestock. If you want one of the best and easiest ways to keep your herd as healthy as possible, start with fresh water! Even in the winter, this is essential and I give my goats fresh water every day twice a day.
While this may seem like common knowledge to some (and it is) I have seen and heard of some really skanky water being left out for goats. This is just asking for problems, and remember “dilution is the solution to pollution”. So, in cases of UC in wethers like I mentioned above, lots of fresh water is key to helping the stones flush from their system!
9. Keep it Clean
Much like fresh water, I feel like this is also common sense. Keep your goats bedding dry and clean! This is cheap insurance to keep health issues at bay and not to mention just being a good steward to your animals. Goats don’t like to be wet or damp, so keeping their bedding clean and dry keeps them comfortable while reducing respiratory issues among other things.
Goats are not like pigs in the sense that they won’t go to the bathroom where they eat or sleep. A goat has no sense of hygiene when it comes to this, and they will quite literally poop and lay down in it. So, it’s our responsibility to keep it clean. Think of them as the kids that make a mess and never clean up after themselves. You are signing up for a lifetime (well, their lifetime) of cleaning out bedding. Know this going into getting your first goats
10. Parasites
There are a lot of parasites out there that can affect your herd, some are more concerning than others. There are various worming protocols that you can follow, but there are some things that you can do for preventative measures:
Pasture rotation is one of the best ways to naturally keep down parasite loads. Rotation allows the parasite cycle to break without a host for the parasite to complete its life cycle. If pasture rotation is not an option, the best possible advice I can give is to never feed your goat on the ground directly. I’m talking about hay or grain, always put it in a dish or a feeder. Now you’re probably thinking but they eat grass? Yes, but they are typically fed by or in the barn, where there is high traffic meaning poop. By not eating food directly on the ground in these high traffic areas you’re reducing the risk of them consuming eggs of a parasite they carried in on their hooves or they’re already shedding. Food dishes are cheap and we built our hay feeders out of scrap material. This is not a way to 100% prevent them from getting worms, it’s going to happen to you at some point. But, feeding off the ground is just another layer of protection to reduce their exposure. It doesn’t have to be overly fancy, just keep it off the ground.
11. Learn Your Goats "Normal"
Goats are pretty amazing animals. They are somehow incredibly sensitive, yet very strong and resilient at the same time. I mean, what other animal can give birth to five babies on her own without issue but scream and cry like she’s being murdered if she’s caught in the rain?
Joking aside, goats can become very sick with little notice and die quickly if left untreated. So, know your goats normal. Know what her average temperature is, maybe it always runs a little high or low than “normal”? Know if she is typically standoffish and is more laid back, or if she’s always front of the line. I could talk about each one of my goats personalities and behaviors in intimate detail like they’re characters on a tv show, and I know if something is amiss. Why? Because I pay attention. I observe them, I pay attention to how they interact with each other, with me, how they behave when milking. That way, when something seems off, this gives me an indication to check them out because something may be wrong. With goats, early detection and prevention is key.
12. Keep a Stocked Medical Kit and have a Relationship with Your Vet
Because goats can go downhill quickly with no notice, it is essential to keep a well stocked medicine cabinet. Keeping commonly needed supplies and medications on hand will give you the needed quick response that can mean the difference between life and death. While I have a kit that keeps me well stocked in a lot of basic veterinary supplies, I have other medications that I keep on hand that I got from my vet in case of an emergency.
While my vet is good and knowledgeable, they aren’t exactly close by. If I were in an emergency situation and I needed a certain medication that could at least help until she can get here, I try to keep that on hand. You can’t get everything from Tractor Supply or Jeffers, and in addition to a vets knowledge and ability to diagnose, you need them for many life saving prescription medications. Forming a close working relationship with a trusted vet is critical when raising livestock.
Are you an experienced goat keeper and have some words of wisdom you would like to add? Drop it in the comments below for those just starting out!
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After what felt like an eternity, the sap finally started running! Despite the seemingly slow start to the season, we have had ideal conditions for the past two weeks. The sap has been filling my buckets and the weather isn’t showing any signs of it slowing down. I have been collecting sap daily from my 18 taps (I went a little over what I capped myself at…shocker) and stockpiling it in a food grade 55 gallon drum. Once it’s full, I boil. Tis’ the season indeed.
This is my first year sugaring as I mentioned in my previous blog post, and I honestly don’t know what I would do without my Vermont Evaporator Company Sapling Evaporator. It has been a lifesaver throughout this new venture, and with the volume I’m collecting I couldn’t imagine doing it any other way. Without it, I’d be in a stressful “how am I going to get all of this done?!?” situation, and I would not enjoy it. When working full time and running a homestead, time is precious, and the evaporator has allowed me to be efficient as possible while capturing that delicious syrup.
We did a “trial run” with the evaporator when we had about 25 gallons collected to get the unit properly seasoned and get our feet wet. There were some initial hiccups that can be anticipated when learning any new piece of equipment, not to mention the fact that we have never boiled sap before! But, we quickly found our groove and made some minor modifications to the evaporator as well as the process that helped us be more efficient.
Adjusting the Level
The Sapling Evaporator is a continuous flow unit which essentially means that the sap flows through the baffles in the pan as it boils down and becomes closer to a syrup-like consistency. Once it has reached syrup (or close to it) you open the exit valve to draw it out. In order to properly to do this, the unit has to be perfectly level so that it’s the density that determines the flow versus a pitch or tilt in the unit.
In our trial run, we really struggled with getting the evaporator perfectly level. We have a dirt driveway, and using cinder blocks/bricks, etc didn’t work for us. We could never get it quite right, which affected the continuous flow! This is after all one of the key benefits of the Sapling and what makes it so efficient. Then, my husband had the brilliant idea to create adjustable feet in order to quickly and easily adjust the level of the evaporator. Carriage bolts fitted through the predrilled holes, with two washers and two nuts per foot worked like a charm. We were able to quickly and easily adjust and readjust the level no matter where we set it. No bricks or cinder blocks needed, just a turn of the nut! Unless you have a perfectly level area that you can set the evaporator on, I highly recommend going this route. Cheap hardware will save you a lot of time shimming and some headaches.
Finishing the Boil off the Evaporator
Sap officially becomes “syrup” when the water has evaporated and it has reduced to the point that it reaches 66.6% sugar, or 219˚F. During the trial run, I quickly learned what finesse and skill it took to get the sap to finish at the required 219˚ F on the evaporator. No matter how hard I tried, I couldn’t get it there. Then finally, after hours and hours of boiling I finally hit it, but ran the sap level so low in the pan that I scorched it and ruined the syrup in the process. Lesson learned.
Now, there are plenty of people out there that have the skill and ability to finish syrup on the evaporator without burning their hours of hard work like I did. I however, do not possess such skill (not yet at least), and if you don’t either there’s no shame in it! It only took the one time for me to learn my lesson, and from that point on I started drawing off the sap that was very close to syrup (~213˚-215˚F) and finishing it on an electric burner outside. This gave me complete control over monitoring and controlling the heat without running the risk of boiling the level too low and scorching my pan, giving me a perfect 219˚F syrup every time! Maybe someday I will get good enough regulating the level of the sap and the temperature and be able to finish the syrup on the evaporator. But honestly, it’s no big deal if I don’t. This way works just as well, and all that matters is that you get the syrup!
My Process
Now that I have a few boils under my belt, I feel like I’ve found my groove and have a process in place that works for me. Every time I get better, and am able to boil more sap in the same amount of time. If you aren’t familiar with the Sapling unit and its operation, reviewing the instructions will help you have a better understanding of my process:
- First things first on boiling day, get the fire going in the evaporator first thing. I will do this before I even get started on the morning chores with the animals just to give it time to get cranking and then by the time I’m done with my morning feedings I’m ready to start boiling sap.
- Once I have a good fire going, I put the evaporator pan on and immediately add my leftover sap from the previous boil to the pan closest to the exit valve, and fresh sap to opposite corner of the evaporator pan.
3. Then I wait, and tend to the fire while keeping as strong and consistent of a boil as possible while maintaining the 2″ depth in the pan. Once the syrup-like sap closest to the exit valve is as hot as I am going to get it in the pan, I draw off anywhere from 6-8 cups and replenish the pan with sap straight from the storage drum.
4. The syrup-like sap that was drawn off goes straight to the electric burner where I can closely monitor it until it reaches 219˚F. Once it hits this temperature, I dump it through a fine mesh filter lined with cheesecloth into a separate pot that will stockpile the day’s syrup.
5. By the time the syrup is finished on the electric burner, the evaporator has boiled down a substantial amount of sap and it’s to the point that I can draw more off and finish it on the burner. From here, it’s rinse and repeat all day long until I have used all of the sap in my storage barrel. It’s an all day event tending to the fire, monitoring temperatures, drawing off sap, and filtering syrup.
6. At the end of the day, all of the syrup is warmed up and poured through a fine final filter to collect the sugar sand and yield a cleaner and clearer syrup before being stored in mason jars.
The Results
I can’t help but laugh to myself that I wasted so many years thinking sugaring was an extremely difficult process. It’s really not! Yes, it is time consuming, and there is absolutely no way around that when you’re boiling off such a substantial amount of water. But, an evaporator such as The Sapling certainly does help speed the process up and make you more efficient, which means that you can boil more in a day! Our boiling days have lasted anywhere from 12-13 hours. So, is it hard? No. But is it time consuming? Yes.
As I have previously mentioned, the industry “standard” is a 40:1 ratio of sap to syrup. This ratio as well as how good the sap runs varies greatly on so many different factors. How mild the winter was, the snow fall, the trees sun exposure (in the woods or in open land), the trees health, and whether there have been drought conditions or not all have an effect.
So far this season I am averaging about 1.25-1.5 gallons of sap per day per tap. Some taps are better producers than others, and in every case the trees that are in the open versus in the woods produce a higher volume. Despite the milder winter and less snowfall, I am hovering right around that 40:1 ratio as well which is always a good thing!
Some Things I Learned
When learning any new skill there is a learning curve of some extent involved. The sugaring season may be a small blip on the year’s radar, but it’s a pretty intense one and you quickly learn on your feet. I have only been boiling for a week, but have already done it three times! I have certainly learned some valuable lessons that I will take with me into next year’s season and beyond:
- Figure out what works best FOR YOU when tapping your trees. You could ask ten different people that have been surgaring for years when and how they determine it’s time to tap their trees and you’ll get varying responses. I know I did. Everyone swears by something different. Some strictly go based on the weather but never before a certain date. Others tap early so they can get an early run while some say absolutely not to tap early because the holes will close up. Everyone swears by something different and it will make your head spin. I have a combination of taps that I put in at the end of January and others only a couple weeks ago before the sap really started running. At first, when the sap started running recently the trees that I had tapped early weren’t producing. I thought that maybe I had screwed up and tapped too soon and the holes had closed up. Well, it took a few ideal days but wouldn’t you know I’m getting buckets full of sap from those trees as well? So what’s the “right” way? Beats me! I don’t think there is necessarily any one best way, you just need to find what works best for you and your operation.
- Make sure you have seasoned sugar wood. Man, I can’t stress this one enough. Of course this is common knowledge and seems like a no brainer, but it’s something we have been struggling with. Going into the season we had pine trees that had been down for a couple years and thought for sure that they would be dry enough to just cut and split to use shortly before the season started. Wrong. The wood was in fact not seasoned enough, meaning we struggled to get a good boil which made us horribly inefficient. So, we have been collecting standing dead pine and any other dry wood we can to limp us through. For next year we will definitely have all of our sugar wood cut, split, and stacked in the summer. Lesson learned.
- Don’t plan on doing much else that day. Like I said before, making maple syrup is not hard but it is time consuming! It truly is an all day event that you can’t get away from for more than fifteen minutes, and it always seems to take me longer than I think it will. I am certainly getting better at it every time, but it is still a full day event and I have never been able to finish under 12 hours. So, on boil day I may have other little projects that I can do around the homestead, but nothing too involved and I make sure I don’t need to leave the house.
- It’s a lot of work but it really IS that delicious. Just like with anything else homegrown or homemade you have a greater appreciation for it and it’s always better than store bought. Homemade maple syrup is no different! Yes, it’s time consuming. But, you only get one shot at it in a short window of opportunity each year and it’s a very fulfilling (and fun) process. Also, not to mention the fact that it is so delicious! Maple syrup in coffee, on pancakes, made into sugar, and used in baking…the possibilities for this natural sweetener are endless.
I certainly have a far greater appreciation for professional sugarers and the price they charge after doing it myself. On our small homestead operation, we average about 1 gallon or so of finished syrup at the end of a boiling day. That’s one gallon of maple syrup after a 12 hour day! Which is exactly why we will be hoarding it all and rationing it throughout the year to get us to next season like I know so many others do…
Making maple syrup at home is a fun, fascinating, and delicious process that I have really enjoyed. Are you a sugarer? If so, I’d love to hear how this season is going for you and what your process is like!
Being the sole caretaker of my animals, it is my responsibility to give my pregnant girls the absolute best care possible to ensure a healthy pregnancy and the easiest delivery possible. It is a responsibility that I also happen to take very seriously. Now, with that being said, sometimes despite how far above and beyond you go with your care, stuff just happens that’s out of your control. This is a hard lesson I learned this year with my first farrowing. But, the best thing you can possibly do for a healthy doe and kids is to give mom the best care possible during her pregnancy.
Some of the care comes towards the end of the pregnancy, while some is just general health and responsibly caring for your doe before being bred. Once a dairy goat is of breeding age, at any given point throughout the year she is either pregnant, lactating, or both. Each require a certain level of care to maintain health and body condition.
Body Condition & General Health
Before your doe is even bred, she should be in good body condition not only for the best chance of the pregnancy settling but for her health as well. A good body condition is an ideal balance of fat and muscle. There are various things that can affect body condition above and beyond over and under feeding. Age, parasites, disease, whether the doe has ever been bred, and the point in her lactation cycle can all have an effect. Too thin is equally as detrimental as too heavy, and can lead to fertility issues, pregnancy toxemia/ketosis, labor difficulties, and higher risk of kid mortality. Being in good body condition will set her up for as healthy of a pregnancy as possible, meaning healthier kids and stronger milk production. If you are unsure how to determine your dairy goat’s body condition score, here is a great video that goes over the scoring system. Whether you’re doing linear appraisal or not, this video will show you what to look for to determine if your doe is too heavy, too thin, or just right.
In addition to body condition, careful attention should be taken to provide any additional supplements she may be deficient in. Being deficient in certain vitamins and minerals can affect fertility and stillborn rates, and sometimes feed and loose minerals isn’t enough. I personally live in a selenium and copper deficient area of the country, so as a preventative measure I give my entire herd a dose of Replamin Gel Plus weekly. It includes many essential vitamins and minerals in addition to the selenium and copper we are deficient in. Administering this weekly has made a huge difference in the thickness and quality of their coats, skin health, and has prevented fertility issues due to providing the much needed selenium and copper naturally lacking. Before breeding season, I recommend that you look into what your area may be deficient in and handle accordingly to prevent potential issues. Whether it be a weekly supplement or a shot your vet can administer, it is worth looking into.
Feeding
Providing your doe with a proper diet is a delicate balance. There are so many variables including quality of hay and grain, breed, and size of the goat. With so many different types of grain and brands, not to mention hay quality, all I can do is speak to what I do here.
I feed out organic second cut hay, and my backup is organic early first cut. These cuttings have the highest nutrient content possible and I fill their hay feeders both morning and at night. Easy enough right? If only…
Throughout the winter regardless of pregnancy, for my winter care regimen (but it just so happens winter is when everyone is pregnant anyway) I also feed out one cup of New Country Organics Goat Pellets to each doe every night. Because they like to bounce around from dish to dish, starting at about six weeks out from her due date I will feed the expecting mother on the milk stand separately. Not only does this get her into the habit of getting on the stand again, but it ensures that she is getting all the grain for her growing babies. When she has a month to go before kidding, I up the grain to one and a half to two cups to accommodate for the rapid growth the kids are going through at this point in gestation.
Grain is a bit of a hot topic issue. Depending on who you ask you will get different opinions on what (if any) grain to feed out during pregnancy and how much. Some swear by feeding out alfalfa pellets late in gestation for additional calcium to aid in labor and milk production, while others say absolutely not due to hypocalcemia. I have found goats to be incredibly tricky as there is a lot of conflicting information out there depending on who you ask.
Regardless of this, pregnancy toxemia is a risk if excessive grain is given during the final month of pregnancy, while ketosis can happen after kidding if not given enough grain. Like I said, it’s a balance! It can be difficult to maintain, but keeping an eye on body condition late in gestation and getting to know your goat’s body will help you determine if she’s getting enough or too much to eat.
Herbal Supplements
Once I start feeding the expectant mother on the milk stand six weeks before her due date I start top dressing 1/4 cup of Molly’s Herbals Pregnancy Tonic on her feed as well. This natural herbal supplement containing red raspberry leaf, alfalfa, rose hips, fennel, and cinnamon has huge benefits to a pregnant doe and I swear by it. Some of the benefits (straight from the site) include:
- Aid in preventing miscarriage and hemorrhage
- Aid in reducing pain during labor and after birth; by helping to tone the muscles used during labor and delivery.
- Strengthen the uterus
- Aid in providing a safe and speedy birth; helps to encourage the uterus to let go and function without tension. This does not strengthen contractions, but does allow the contracting uterus to work more effectively and so make the birth easier and faster.
- Aid in colostrum / milk production and quality.
- When consumed after birth, this Pregnancy Tonic may help decrease uterine swelling and cut down on post partum bleeding.
- Supplies Vitamins A, Bs, C, E, K, D. High in Calcium and contains phosphorus, iron. potassium and enzymes and trace minerals.
I used tonic last year throughout the last trimester of my doe Karen’s pregnancy. She had a textbook kidding in every way imaginable. Her labor was quick, she quickly released the placenta, and there was minimal post partum bleeding. I largely thank the Molly’s Herbals for this, and will always feed it to my pregnant does!
Shave Her Up
Shortly before kidding you will want to give your does udder, backs of legs, and vulva area a thorough shaving with an electric razor. Not only will this make clean up easier after birthing, but a clean shaved udder will make it easier for the kids to nurse and easily find the teats.
I have maintained (and still do!) that dairy goats are some of the most difficult animals to keep. They can be so delicate yet tough at the same time, and so many things can go wrong during pregnancy, kidding, and with milk production. There is conflicting information everywhere you turn, and it can be extremely frustrating. But, once you have a reliable grain, hay, and supplement regimen you figure out a rhythm that works for you. Feeding quality feed is the best you can do just like with any other animal. But, I also believe that what works and what doesn’t work largely is affected by animals living conditions, as well as the area of the country you live in and its deficiencies.
All of the care I mentioned above is what I do, and what I learned from my friend and amazing goat mentor Angela with some of my own research. This works for me and gives my herd the best chance possible at a healthy pregnancy and kids! Do you give special care/ treatment/ feeding/ supplements to your pregnant does? Let’s hear what you do below!
Spring is right around the corner and with that comes kidding season! Just like with any other animal that’s preparing to give birth, I like to have a well stocked birthing kit on hand that can cover my bases for the most common problems that potentially arise. I do not want to be in the midst of a situation and not have something on hand that could help the doe or the baby if I can help it.
Now I am far from an expert, and I am not a veterinarian. This list is merely what I have accumulated, and other people’s kits may include or exclude some of these items. So I highly recommend that you do have a vet you can contact in case of an emergency, and even consult them about what you should include in your kit in preparation for kidding!
What's In My Kit
Things to Dry Those Babies Off!
- Blow Dryer
- Towels
- Puppy pads/paper feed bags
- Sweaters
- Heat Lamp
Regardless of the climate you live in, it is essential to get those babies dry and warm once they’re born. Puppy potty pads or paper feed bags work great to catch the babies on once they are born as a way to contain all of the birthing goo and keep bedding clean and dry. They should then be towel dried (puppy pads also work!) and then blow dried to get completely dry and work as a quick warm up.
If it’s really cold, goat sweaters come in handy to help them stay warm and if you really need it heat lamps. I have always been scared of heat lamps due to their fire hazard, but last year I made the switch to Premier 1 Prima heat lamps due to their many safety features. They give me peace of mind knowing my goat kids, lambs, and piglets are safe and warm.
Immediately After Birth and Dry Off
- Nutri-Drench
- Iodine
- Glass to dip cord in (tall shot class works well)
- Floss/fishing line
- Colostrum/colostrum replacer
Once the kid(s) have been completely dried off, I put a pump of Nutri-Drench in everyone’s mouth including mom. This gives them a nutrient and vitamin boost as well as molasses for energy. I give this immediately after drying off, even before nursing to give them a much needed quick boost of energy.
The umbilical cord also needs to be dipped in iodine all the way up to the belly. This sterilizes the cord and prevents any kind of infection from entering. It will eventually dry up and fall off on its own. I keep dental floss and/or fishing line on hand as well in case the umbilical cord didn’t break on its own during birth. If it doesn’t, tie it off with floss or fishing line to stop blood flow and carefully cut the cord with your thumb nail.
Making sure the babies start nursing from mom as soon as possible after kidding is essential. The colostrum the mother is producing simply put is liquid gold and without it the kid will likely not survive. Sometimes however, you have latching issues or production issues and it just can’t happen. So, keeping frozen colostrum on hand in the freezer (this is ideal!!!) or kid colostrum replacement is a must. If you have the frozen colostrum and need to use it, do not microwave to thaw. Let it gently thaw in warm water so you don’t “cook” it.
Expect the Unexpected
There are various things I keep in on hand for general health care as well as in case of an emergency with the babies or doe during kidding. I have used every single item below in one scenario or another, and they are all essential when keeping goats. All of these items can be sourced from your local farm store and online farm supply stores such as Jeffers. These items include:
- Molasses
- Thermometer
- Gloves
- Lube
- CMPK drench/paste
- Dosing gun/syringe
- Vitamin B Complex ( I use injectable)
- Penn-G
- LA-300
- Ivermectin Sheep Pour on & Injectable
- Various Sryinges (18 gauge & 20 gauge)
- Sanitary Wipes
- Electrolytes
- Pritchard Nipples
- Bottle (old pop bottle)
- Diagram of birthing positions
Prescription Medications to Keep on Hand
- Banamine
- Dexamethasone
These are all the items that I currently keep in my goat/kid kit, and I have had to use in one situation or another whether it be for my goats or pigs. Depending on your situation, you may need items not included on this list or may never need items that I have included. Over time you will accumulate supplies as needed, but this is a great place to start.
Do you keep any items in your kidding kit for the babies or mom that I didn’t include? Let’s hear them below and why!
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Taking care of livestock in the winter is where the men are separated from the boys. Well below freezing temperatures, deep snow, ripping winds, frozen water…these are some of the challenges winter brings. Living in north central Massachusetts, we get the snow and frigid subzero temperatures, so winter is real around here. I get asked a lot about how we care for our animals in the cold months, as it seems to be a concern for people new to keeping livestock. When it comes to the goats, there really are two things that are of the upmost importance: they need to be dry and in as draft free of an area as possible. They can handle the coldest of temperatures as long as they are dry, their bedding is dry, and they have protection from drafts.
While my goats are spoiled rotten with their organic/soy free/non gmo feed, organic second cut hay, and constant doting, I consider myself to be pretty old school when it comes to animal husbandry. I am a firm believer that animals were built to handle inclement weather. They have thick coats, snuggle to stay warm, and as ruminants their fermenting bellies act like internal space heaters. So, this means no heat lamps or additional heat sources in the barn. Now not saying these couldn’t or shouldn’t be used in life or death situations. But, these supplemental heat sources throw their bodies out of whack and make it difficult for them to self regulate with constant exposure. Not to mention the extreme danger of a fire. I have been known however to wake up 1-2 times in the middle of the night when we have real bad cold snaps (like last year when it was -20F+ for weeks on end) to suit up and go check on the girls. So, what do I do to keep our herd going throughout the cold months? Read on friends.
Fresh Water and Night Time Feedings
While there are several “hacks” you hear out there for keeping water from freezing with salt water in a pop bottle floating in water, or a bucket stuffed in a tire with insulation, I don’t use them. Frankly, we have too many animals and uhhh the whole full time job thing gets in the way too. We are all about the heated buckets and stock tank heaters around here to ensure that everyone has access to thawed and fresh water all day no matter the temperatures.
I keep out two 2-gallon heated buckets for the does (and Annie girl) , and one bucket for the boys. Every night I dump whatever water is in the buckets and replenish with fresh. Just because it’s hot out doesn’t mean the goats drink any less water. If anything, I find they drink just as much if not more sometimes than in the summer. My goats however, are spoiled rotten snobs and if the water isn’t replenished daily, I will have an uprising on my hands.
In an added measure to help them stay warm throughout cold nights, I always feed their daily grain during evening chores. The grain paired with their evening 2nd cut hay ration keeps their rumens going strong and digesting throughout the night. Fat bellies full of fermenting feed and hay act like internal space heaters keeping them warm and happy throughout the night.
Proper Bedding
Bedding material is a matter of personal preference and finding what works best for you. For the past two winters I have tried (and failed) to implement a deep litter method using a combination of straw, hay waste, and pine shavings. Because the floors of my stalls are cement, I thought this would help the goats stay off of the cold cement to stay warm. While I know several people that this method works well for, it has yet to work for me and this winter I have accepted defeat and kissed it goodbye. My stalls are too small causing all of the bedding to get wet quickly, and wet bedding in the winter is the enemy. Since the doors to enter the stalls from inside the barn swing inward, adding fresh bedding on top of old bedding piles it high which prevents me from being able to even open the door. I have spent more time digging out certain areas (like behind the door so I could open it) and wet spots (which is basically the entire stall) trying to salvage any usable bedding than its worth.
This year I am foregoing this method and am using rubber stall mats to provide a barrier against the cement floor. I am also utilizing a combination of fine pine shavings and absorbent stall refresher to try to make the shavings last between cleanings. Because pine shavings are easier to work with than straw or wasted hay and make spotting wet spots easier, every day or so I will remove any wet spots I can see and give a light sprinkle of PDZ stall refresher. This is an organically approved, natural, and compostable additive that will absorb moisture and ammonia odors in the bedding. It will allow me to stretch the bedding for a week or so depending on the weather, and with some light reapplication of shavings between cleanings it will keep the bedding thick to provide warmth and a good layer to snuggle down into. Regular mucking of the stalls will also be considerably easier because I won’t have months worth of compacted wet bedding to pull out when it’s freezing outside.
So to recap, some things I do to help the bedding stay clean and dry in between regular stall clean outs:
- Designate a stall that you use to go in and out of. This way you are only tracking snow in one, so that you maintain at least one stall stays drier thanks to your wet feet staying out of it.
- Spot clean manure/urine daily. During morning and evening chores I scoop out any wet shavings or heavy manure areas. It takes 2 minutes and helps keep the bedding clean and dry.
- After spot cleaning, give light sprinkling of stall refresher to absorb odors, ammonia, and moisture. Add some fresh shavings as needed, every other day or so.
- Use stall mats. Our stalls have concrete floors, so last year I invested in rubber stall mats. Not only does it help the goats stay warmer as opposed to being on the concrete floor, it makes cleaning so much easier.
- Pick a cleaning schedule and stick to it. I do a full clean out of the stalls once a week no matter what. You never know what the weather may bring, and by doing regular cleanings you have less build up meaning it takes less time to clean them.
Draft Control
Keeping your goats and their bedding dry is only half the battle. While avoiding any kind of dampness is extremely important to help them stay warm and prevent respiratory issues, drafts are equally as dangerous. Frigid temperatures are tolerable for goats, but nothing can take one down quicker than exposure to cold winds. Our stalls have sliding doors that allow me to either fully shut the door if needed, or close it part way. The girls and Annie don’t like being shut in at night and it causes more problems than it solves. However, partially closing the stall doors leaving it open just enough to go in and out is good enough. They will cuddle behind the door which blocks them from the harsh wind, but they still have the ability to go outside if they choose to.
While the boys don’t live in the barn, their house was designed with the opening offset to one side. This way they can cuddle in the corner away from the door opening that protects them from the wind. It is essentially the same concept as the sliding doors, only the opening is a fixed size and instead of the sliding door they have a wall.
Depending on the set up if sliding doors or any door is not an option, sacrificial hay/straw bales work as great wind barriers as well. This is something that I have done in the past, and while it may not be the prettiest thing, it is a cheap and effective alternative. Stacking them up gives the goats something to lay down behind and get out of the wind.
The Overhang
While the overhang doesn’t really help the goats stay warm, it does give additional communal space out of the elements. In the dead of winter when they don’t want to go out in the snow, cabin fever sets in and it can get ugly. The 96 square foot overhang gives them space to move around, stretch their legs, and play on their wire spools even if it’s snowing. Goats hate precipitation, and will refuse to leave the barn. Previously only having the two stalls made them a little crazy during long stretches of snow because they didn’t have a whole lot of space to move around. But, by adding this additional living space for them, I can already tell it’s going to make a world of difference when the snow is flying.
After having goats now for three years, I finally feel like we have the best winter set up we can possibly have. Each year we have learned and improved, the biggest being when we built the mini barn last year. We certainly have come a long way from Karen and Alan living in a dog house their first winter! Whatever your set up is, it’s all about finding what works best for you. Whether your goats live in a dog house or a barn, you have dirt floor stalls or cement, there are ways to keep your animals comfortable and safe throughout the winter months. It may not be prettiest or the fanciest, but all that matters is that it gets the job done.